DIY Steampunk Shoulder Armor Part 2. Cosplay Armor Pattern and Tutorial


Hey, welcome to part 2 of the steampunk
shoulder armor tutorial pattern tutorial… tutorial. I am still wearing my
mechanical arm because I love it and I’m allowed to, because this is my basement.
If you haven’t already watched part 1 there’s a link in the description below
or in the upper right hand corner but other than that let’s just get
making. Alright so I’m gonna start by adding fancy bits and pieces to the main
torso piece but before I start on that I’m gonna heat up the pauldron and the
pauldron flappy bit, wrap them with some cling wrap so they stay really curled up
and want to stay curled up for the rest of their life. They can just hang out
like that while I’m working on the other part. Grab a piece of corrugated plastic
tubing from the sky and cut three pieces that fit between the edge of the nut and
the edge of the circle, which for the medium-sized pattern is 25 millimeters
long. Now you can use a pair of scissors to cut each piece in half. The position
of these tubing pieces will be fairly important when we add the wire so try to
line them up as shown here. If you run a straight edge from the upper left tube
it should create a line parallel to the top line of the kinda rectangular piece.
Once you’re happy with the positioning, glue the tubing down, being careful not
to use too much glue because it’s pretty hard to clean up on the outside of those
tubes. And now you can glue the center nut. Grab that pen you almost threw away
but didn’t, take out the inside pen bit and mark the case every two and a half
centimeters. Oh actually you’re gonna need two pens to get enough pieces. Now
cut along the marks. I like to use a tubing cutter for this because it makes
a nice straight cut and it also rounds off the ends beautifully. Push your
little pen pieces into their tubes, leaving 20 millimeters sticking out, then
use super glue to glue them down onto the foam.
Piece 24 is made the right size for if you didn’t have those pen pieces
sticking out but since we do we need to stretch it all the way around. That way
we’ll have enough extra length to go over the pens. Now glue it down, section
by section, forming it around each of the pens.
Glue the last three pen pieces equally spaced in the not-quite rectangular box.
We probably need a strap to hold down those sensitive components so let’s glue
down piece 37. I use the end of a ruler to jam it down in between the pens.
Okay let’s wire this contraption up. The wire I’m using is old telephone wire
but you can use whatever you can get your
hands on. This process can be a bit of trial and error but basically it
involves bending the wire to follow the path you want it to go and then gluing
it down with superglue. As they say a picture’s worth a thousand words so
rather than trying to explain where every wire goes I’ll just let you sit
back and watch. (funky music) If you find yourself struggling to get
the bends in the right places it can often be helpful to draw the path on the
foam first and then bend your wire to follow it. (more funky music) All right your fancy wires should be all
glued. Now it’s time to go back to the foam bits. Piece 29 gets glued over the
end of that wire there, then piece 30 here and here. A couple 12 millimeter
discs cut out and stacked on top of each other make a great screw head to go on
top of the nut. Cut two parallel lines partway down through the foam disk then
connect the cuts across the bottom and then you’ve got a nice slot for your
screwdriver when you need to tighten up that nut if it gets loose. Now cut 10
more 12 millimeter disks and glue each one in the center of a piece 23, which
then gets a six millimeter hole punched in the its center. Glue five of those
disks over the holes you punched in the neck guard and the other five on the
shoulder armor piece directly across from each neck disc. Now’s a good time to add some
fake rivets to each disk using your pen. See if you can find an old power cord
that no one would mind if it got completely destroyed and cut five
5 centimeter lengths. Give them each a good sharp bend so they stay a little bit
curved and use super glue to glue them into the disks. Piece 31 gets glued on to
the back and a whole bunch of fake rivets get made all over the place. I
even use the back of my pen for one piece just to change it up. And, because
you can never have too many rivets, I’m gonna make my favorite type of rivets
using five-minute two-part epoxy. Squirt out equal parts of epoxy, mix it
super duper well and use a match head to apply a small drop wherever you want a
rivet. This technique does take a bit of practice and has been known to be
frustrating for some people so use at your own risk of frustration. I used
these rivets on the top of the neck guard, on the corner pieces, on the little
tab things, and right…here. To finish it off we probably need some six millimeter
screw heads around the ring that holds the power station device in place. Don’t
want that to fall out – lose all your power to your shoulder. Okay onto the
pauldron. Piece 13, piece number seven, piece 15, a cute little grill, piece 14 on
top of piece 13, piece 8 on top of piece 7, piece 9 on top of piece 8,
piece 10 and 11 on top of piece 7 and piece 12 on top of piece 8 and 11. Now
take piece 22 and stretch out the center a bit. You can just use your hands
or if you happen to have a knee you could use that too. Apply glue up the
middle section and glue it into place, centered along the center line of the
pauldron. Now glue down the sides, trying to keep it as smooth as possible.
Glue down piece 16, leaving about a 10 millimeter gap between it and the rim
around the pauldron. Glue pieces 17, 18 and 20 on top of piece 16, and 19 on top
of piece 18. The fan blade thing gets jammed in the hole so that it domes
outward and looks really cool. Pressing down a little bit in the middle helps it
not look too pointy. Glue it in with some superglue. 39, 39 and 39 line up nicely
right here. A little v cut in a leftover piece of edging allows it to cover up
the top pauldron seam. Glue the ends of piece 26 together to form a little tube.
That tube gets glued down to piece 27, centered as best as possible. Use a very
small amount of glue to glue the cover piece down to the side of the cylinder
in four equally spaced places. Next, apply glue to one of the unglued sections and
work it down against the side of the tube with your fingers. The look we’re
going for here is a metal cap that’s been crimped down over top of the tube
so we’re happy with a few little ripples and bumps. Again if you don’t want to burn
yourself use a glue gun set at a low temperature. Repeat this process for the
other three sections and you’ve got a neat little capped housing for your
burner coil, which we’re gonna make right now with two strips of foam 45.5 centimeters long –
one 17 millimeters wide and the other 9 millimeters wide.
Glue one on top of the other, lining up one of the long edges. I’m gonna paint
mine with a bit of red and a bit of black to give it a kind of hot element
vibe. We’re gonna need to paint both sides but try not to paint the lower
portion of the strip because that’s where we’re gonna be applying the glue.
Once the paint is dry, roll it up like a little cinnamon bun and glue it. It’ll be
a bit tricky to paint the front of the housing later with the coil installed so
I might as well do it now. I also added a bit of brass accent to the coil for
some extra zing and a 12 millimeter disc to cover the centre. Push the coil into
the housing and glue the housing onto the shoulder armor.
Note that the housing is not placed in the center of piece 22 but more towards
the front. Glue some nine millimeter disks here here here here and here, and
some six millimeter disks here here here and here. Also all
around here. And we might as well just go crazy and make them all into screw heads.
Hopefully you’re not tired of cutting discs yet because we need twelve more
12 millimeter discs which get 9 millimeter discs glued on top of them.
These go here here here here here here here here here here here and here. Now
give them each a really good poke with a pen so that we can stick our wire in
them. We’ll also cut some little slots in the top of the three piece 39s for the
same reason, and now it’s time to get funky with some wires. (funky music plays) And that’s the wires. We just need to
pretend to hold them down with some little tabs like number 40 here and
number 30 here here and here. Add some fake rivets with your pen and some more
fake rivets with some epoxy and a match. Don’t forget that the little flappy bit
for the pauldron needs some fake rivets too. Right now your shoulder armor looks a bit
like a clown suit so be sure to make the most of it before you get out your paint.
Start by painting it with black artists acrylic paints. I like to give it three
coats of black paint so the paint really fills in the pores of the foam and gives
me a nice smooth non-porous surface when it comes time to apply the metallics.
Once your three coats are dry, put on a rubber glove and grab your metallic
paints. I’m using Basics Bronze for all the background color. Take a tiny bit of
paint and then spread it out on the cardboard until there’s almost none on
your finger and then rub it on the foam. The great thing is that because your
finger is shaped like a finger it doesn’t apply the paint right to the
edges which is actually a good thing when you’re trying to make it look like
old oxidized metal. In the places where my fingers can’t reach I use a tiny
amount of paint on a brush and apply it mainly down the center so it fades off
to each side. If you end up rubbing paint in places you shouldn’t be rubbing, it’s
easy enough to go back with some black and cover it up. Next I’ll pull out my
Deco Art Americana Decor Metallics paints which I’m using thanks to Deco
Art’s Helping Artists Program. The first color I’m going to use is Vintage Brass. Right now my favorite silver color is
actually a 50/50 mix of Deco Art Metallics Pewter and their Silver. Now grab an old belt, cut it in two and
glue one end to the front and the other to the back. Obviously you’re gonna want
to try it on first before you start gluing to make sure the straps are gonna
line up the best way for your body. I made sure to give the belt and the foam
a quick sand with some coarse sandpaper to give the hot glue something to grip
on. Glue a piece of elastic inside the flappy bit to keep it attached to your
arm and then install the hinge rivets as per my other video. And all that’s left
is to attach the pauldron with a piece of webbing and some glue. All right, super
cool shoulder. Just so you know there’s three sizes to the armor pattern – there’s a
large, medium and small. This is the medium so the large is bigger the small
is smaller and if you want to get your hands on the shoulder armor pattern I’ll have links here
at the end of the video as well as in the description. Okay so maybe some of
you are wondering what will this look like on a female body and I don’t have a
lot of female bodies in my house but I do have one right here. (swoosh sound)
It’s my wife Lorinda. So I asked her to try it on and this is what it looks like.
This is a size small. It’s not finished – I just glued this on here for now, that’s
why it’s kind of coming off there, but it gives you a little bit of an idea what
the pattern will look like on a female torso. And this is the medium on a bit of
a larger lady and so that’s how that looks on a hard bodied female. However I do
realize that there are lots of different sizes and shapes of people so if you
make the pattern and find you have to do some alterations to get it to fit please
let me know and I will update the pattern to have a female torso version
as well so that everyone can be happy and have something that fits them easily
and awesomely. Thanks for watching. See ya. And don’t forget the armor pattern, wherever it
is, and also if you haven’t seen the mechanical arm video and want to make
that (makes mechanical sounds) you could do that too by clicking a link in the description. The end.

97 thoughts on “DIY Steampunk Shoulder Armor Part 2. Cosplay Armor Pattern and Tutorial

  1. Out of all the Eva foam makers your stuff is definitely the best ive seen (mostly because you actually know how too paint it)

  2. Super happy to see this! I bought the super bundle last year because, even if I only make 2 or 3 of your projects, everything I've seen you put out has been amazing! Definitely looking forward to making this one.

  3. Another fantastic video with an equally brilliant pattern! I have got to make this – no specific place or event to wear it but just because I want to!

  4. So awesome! Thanks Chris😊. Your good lady would look amazing in anything… you’re so blessed. Another triumph of your skill and creativity.

  5. I love how it turned out and cant wait to adjust to my female body… thanks so much for these, they are loved and appreciated!

  6. So my youngest cousin has just asked for a Hiccup custome. I didn't really think I was able to make it. But this is giving me lots of inspiration to do so.
    Thanks for your hard work in making this pattern.

  7. Incredible! This is amazing. Not only doe this give me a steampunk pattern, it also gives me a fantasy armor pattern. I always look forward to your tutorials!

  8. You're absolutely amazing when it comes to steampunk. And DIY. And coming up with ideas… and making videos… I love your content <3

  9. You know you’re sick when you’re laying in bed watching this and you giggle at the ‘piece 39, 39, and 39’ part 😂🤒😂

  10. Thank you for posting the pattern videos. I don't think I would have the guts to try them without some visual helps.

  11. Hi, i've just found your channel, I am new to making and all the other makers i've seen prime or plastidip before painting, butyou just paint directly onto the foam. are there pros and cons?

  12. Thank you, you wonderfull inventor. I bought your ultimate pattern bundle and cant wait to get cutting and glueing. My brother and I make steampunk and other foamy stuff. We really look up to you and enjoy your humor, video's and techniques.

  13. It's unbelievable how such a fantastic video gets so few views and likes. Congrats again for your awesome work!

  14. what are the dimensions of your wife ?
    or what height and weight range would you recommend for the small pattern?
    thanks, i’m new to channel and loved this video

  15. Love your work, you share a lot of technics , great editing on your video. A true family man and artist. God bless you man.

  16. You always amaze me with your creativity and I’m always excited to see when you have new videos. Cheers Chris!! Thanks so much for your art and your sharing and cheerful spirit. Hugs and love to you and your family.

  17. You forgot base before to color it. Usually a flexy, rubber coat like plastidip. In your way it will remove from surface in few months or when it s under pressure.( crack )

  18. I've just watched your both videos and the outcome is pretty awesome ! Thank you for describing such precisely all the steps, your piece is beautiful and the process is very original ! 😀

  19. This almost feels like cgi… massive respect man, you just know how to make it work. And the colors especially.

  20. I always regret watching these steampunk DIYs, because I'm never going to actually do it myself, and the illusion is gone when I see something like this later, hehe.

  21. You may have addressed this before so forgive me if I missed it. You changed from contact cement to hot glue in your videos. I live in a humid climate in Tennessee and sometimes go to cons in Georgia which is worse. I have made EVA costumes before with hot glue and they completely fell apart. I assume in my situation I should use contact cement? Thanks for your opinion and anyone else that wants to chime in.

  22. I just thought of something kinda weird. I have the tools and skills to craft metal, but foam has always been quite difficult for me. And, even though it takes a ton more time, this pattern may work with metallic parts too. Gon need to think about it first through, before i start trying anything out. It may be a dumb idea for some part and then i'm stuck with it if i just start doing.

  23. i bet your a hit with your kids during when helloween…..do you make there costumes? i bet their super cool and the envy on the neighborhood lol

  24. You are a master craftsman with a great imagination and a good eye. Do you work on a film set or such? Brilliant.

  25. Woohoo!!! Stoked. I just bough your entire collection super awesome bonus pattern set!! So far I've made your steampunk top hat (2 actually), goggles (also 2), mech arm, and now I'm adding a shoulder. Your work is amazing and super fun. Thanks

  26. After you've made all these groovy things, does the hot glue continue to stick for a long time, or does it slowly release from the foam?

  27. I'm using PVC tube instead of the bits of pen. I found I could make the wire fit more snugly into the tube by adding a lining. I found some old coax cable and removed the inside – must be coax as the sleeve is round inside unlike mains cable. It was a little too big, so I sliced the sleeve lengthways and cut a couple mm off to reduce the diameter to the exact amount needed to fit inside the PVC tube.

  28. Looking at the shoulder piece in the beginning compared to the end (or rather with the arm and without), it looks like part of the shoulder armor isn't included, is that correct? I believe it is the part that ends up attached with the hinges. If the arm is already built and this is going to be in addition to it, is that last piece not required?

  29. I brought the bundle deal and it's the best purchase! All your tutorials are easy to follow. 1 of the best. Keep it up.

  30. You are a very talented guy—
    Love the amazing sequences of paints you applied to this project.
    I will use these ideas when I’m building my 8 foot robot!

  31. Mad props on the templates! I did the steam punk shoulder and arm and it is spectacular. I would LOVE a steampunk shin guard armor kind of deal to add to it on the left side. Any chance your toying with that idea? On a side note, ever thought of doing a gallery of peoples creations based off your work? I have seen many great projects based on your templates (usually some custom work/colors were involved)

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