Star Wars Imperial Assault Painting Guide Ep.10: Jyn Odan


Hello, and welcome to Episode 10
of Sorastro’s Star Wars painting series. In this episode, we’re going to
begin painting the hero miniatures from Fantasy Flight’s Star Wars: Imperial Assault, beginning with Jyn Odan. Before we start, I’m going to preface this next set
of videos with some additional preparatory ideas, which will cover an alternative,
stronger method of rebasing as well as showing how to use Green Stuff
to fill in unwanted gaps. After preparing the miniatures,
we’re going to paint Jyn Odan using a standard approach of applying base colours, shading with washes, adding highlights, and finishing touches. If you’ve been following this series so far, you should have a pretty good grasp
of all the basic techniques required. Let’s begin. Before priming the hero figures, you may notice one or two gaps, such as we see here. This is pretty common in multi-part miniatures, and it’s fairly simple to fix using some Green Stuff. If you haven’t used it before, Green Stuff is a commonly used
two-part modelling putty that should be widely available. It usually comes in strips like this where we can clearly see
the two parts of the compound; the yellow part being the filler,
and the blue part the hardener. A little water applied to your fingers and modelling tools will prevent the Green Stuff from sticking to them and make it much easier to work with. All we do, is cut the amount off we want and knead or twist the putty until the blue and yellow parts are
fully mixed to create a smooth green. From this moment on,
the Green Stuff will begin slowly drying, but it does take some time, so there’s no need to rush. All we do now that the Green Stuff is thoroughly mixed, is apply a small amount to the gap
we want to fill and press it in, removing any excess as we work. Once we’re happy that the gap is filled, we can either add texture as appropriate or smooth it over, and there’s nothing wrong
with using our fingers to do this. Drying times may vary, but it will remain
malleable for up to about an hour. Once done, it’s best to leave
the miniature overnight to fully cure before spraying with a primer. I’ve chosen to spray most of my heroes – including the wave 1 Heroes and Villains – white except some of the darker miniatures,
such as the wookiees and IG-88, which I have chosen to spray black. If white is all you have though, that would be fine. I’m now going to rebase my hero miniatures in a similar way to that which I used
to rebase Darth Vader in episode 7, except I’ll be reinforcing the miniatures with some wire. To do this, you will need some cutters, a modelling drill, some wire – and a simple paper clip
is ideal for this –, and some superglue. You’ll want a drill size that is just
marginally wider than the wire you’re using. After removing the miniature from its original base
– and selecting a new one – we carefully drill directly up into the soles of the feet, taking care not to drill too far,
which could cause us to puncture the leg. If that does happen, however, it shouldn’t be
too difficult to repair with a little Green Stuff. We then clip off around a centimetre or so of wire… ..and super glue it into the holes. We now mark out where the counterpart
holes need to go in our chosen base. We then drill down into the base, and it doesn’t really matter
if we come out the other side or not. You can then either clip the wires
and glue the hero in straightaway, or, as I’m doing, glue the hero to the base after painting. If you do choose to stick the figure
down after painting as I am, you can temporarily mount it onto a wine cork
to make it easier to handle. With the preparatory work done,
we’re now ready to begin painting. For the base colours, I’m starting with a 50/50 mix
of black and Mechanicus Standard Grey for all of the black areas. That means the boots, leather straps, belt, hair, and gun. As usual, we thin all paints with a little water and apply more than one layer as necessary
to achieve strong, even coverage. Once the black areas are done,
we can use Kislev Flesh for the skin. For the orange parts of the jacket and gloves,
I’m using Fire Dragon Bright; however, a virtually identical colour can be achieved with an equal mix of Flash Gitz Yellow
and Wild Rider Red, as you can see here. We can now appreciate the value
of using a white primer as with the black primer we would
have to work a lot harder to achieve such a striking bright orange tone. We can then use some Steel Legion Drab for the trousers and brown parts
of the jacket and gloves. And finally, some Runefang Steel for the silver details such as the tip of the gun and the belt buckles. It’s worth having a final check
and doing any necessary neatening up before moving on to the shading stage. With the base colours applied,
we’re ready to do some shading. We can now apply some dark washes to the miniature, and I’m going to start with some straight Nuln Oil for all of the brown, black, and white areas. Before washing the gun, however,
I would first give it a silver drybrush. For the skin, I have chosen a slightly delicate 50/50 mix
of Reikland Fleshshade and Lahmian Medium. This can be built up in a couple of layers
to gently strengthen the shadowed areas, such as under the chin, nose, and the eyes, Finally, for the orange parts of the jacket and gloves, I’m going to use a 50/50 mix of
Fuegan Orange and Agrax Earthshade. I’ve chosen to add the Agrax Earthshade to produce
a stronger tone to deepen the shadows. Once the shades are dry,
we’re ready to begin the highlights. We’re now going to highlight the jacket, starting with a reapplication of Fire Dragon Bright. Jyn’s jacket is the most visually
striking part of the miniature. It is therefore the part we’re going
to give the most attention. Here, we want to avoid the areas
we want to remain shadowed and bring the rest smoothly back up
to a strong, bright orange. After the Fire Dragon Bright, we then
mix in some yellow for the next highlight. I’m using Yriel Yellow,
but Flash Gitz Yellow would also be fine. As usual, a gradual buildup of thin layers
is the way to achieve smooth transitions. For the next highlight, we can use pure yellow. Naturally, the lighter we go,
the smaller the area we want to hit. When deciding how bright to take our highlights, it’s worth considering what type
of material we’re trying to render. For this jacket, we’re going for a shiny leather look, which means we can be quite extreme
with our highlighting. I’m therefore going to add an even lighter final highlight by adding a little white to the yellow. This wants to be applied sparingly to just some of the edges
and most raised parts of the material. We can now begin to see the jacket really coming to life. Once we’re done, we could finish
the orange off with a yellow glaze, which we can apply undiluted to the whole area, and which should help tie the layers together. With the hardest part done,
we can now highlight the rest of the miniature, starting with some White Scar for all of the white areas. It’s quite OK for the white armour
to have a slightly uneven, wheathered finish. Using nicely thinned paint means you can revisit an area and subtly brighten it further with additional layers. For the trousers, I’m using some Steel Legion Drab. We don’t want to go over the top
with the highlights here, as we’re aiming for quite a dark, matte finish. And don’t forget, when the miniature is viewed, it’s the vivid orange jacket that will draw
most of the viewers attention. I’m then adding just a little white
for a second, gentle highlight. I’m applying this to just one or two places, including perhaps a couple
of the raised folds on the jacket as well as the tips of the gloved fingers. For the black areas, I’m using
some Eshin Grey to begin with. I’ll be adding a little white to produce
a slightly lighter second highlight, especially for the hair. The skin can have a highlight of Kislev Flesh. And, once again, we can simply add
some white for a second highlight, paying particular attention to the nose and cheekbones. Finally, you might like to pick the belt buckle out
with a small hit of Runefang Steel. Once done, we’re ready for some finishing touches. We’re now going to paint the eyes
using a fairly simple but effective approach, bearing in mind our goal
of achieving a good tabletop standard. With our smallest brush,
we’re going to paint the whites of the eyes, which may seem tricky given how small they are, and the fact they’re not especially well defined. Our plan is to use a black wash after this to shade the surrounding area
and give definition to the edge of the eye. So the white we’re applying now,
doesn’t necessarily have to be perfect, and it can afford to cover a slightly
larger area than we might expect. Now, we tilt the figure back
and apply some neat Nuln Oil to each eye, encouraging the wash to collect
around the edges as best we can. Notice, how the black wash does a nice job
of effectively shrinking the white areas back down. And where it collects at the sides,
can even give the impression of pupils as if Jyn is giving a sideways glance. This should give a result
that will look fine on the tabletop, although you could of course do some
additional retouching if you wish. At this point, I’ve also chosen to
boost the highlights on the hair, and some of the black areas of the clothing, with quite a light white and Eshin Grey mix. I’m then going to give the hair a gentle purple glaze with a roughly 1:3 mix of Druchii Violet
and Lahmian Medium. More than one layer of this can be applied, depending on how strong you
want the resulting colour to be. A glance at the character art tells us that Jyn’s outfit
has an additional detail that we can add at this stage: the light stripes down the side of her trousers. For that, I’m using Rakarth Flesh,
but any light beige colour would do. We can then use a little Nuln Oil to shape the creases. Once we’ve finished adding the final details,
we need to paint the stand. And here, I’ve used the same steps used in episode 7, which means a combination
of grey and silver drybrushing and some Nuln Oil to add some shadow. We then spray both with our matte varnish. Once dry, we clip the wires back and glue the figure into the base. One final touch that I couldn’t resist,
is to add a thinned gloss varnish – using an equal mix of water and varnish – to the orange leather of the jacket,
to give it a gentle, leathery sheen. And this completes Jyn Odan. Thank you as always for watching and especially for all of the Patreon support
this channel has received so far. Stay tuned, as we’ll soon be moving on to the next hero
from Star Wars: Imperial Assault. Happy painting!

87 thoughts on “Star Wars Imperial Assault Painting Guide Ep.10: Jyn Odan

  1. Have you tried this re-enforced re-base technique on a clear, acrylic disk base?  I'm leaning towards re-basing on clear disks, but I'd also like a bit more support.  Thanks for the great videos!

  2. Wow!  Great video!  What size brushes were you using?  Were they all Kilinsky?
    The only bad thing about these videos are that I'm never satisfied with my own now!  My Jyn looks like a sloppy hobo now….

  3. Again great work. Keep rocking!

    Do you have thought about to paint some Warhammer miniatures? I rearly like your videos and i personally dont care if the miniatures are from boardgames or tabletop games because i can apply your techniques on both. But I think you could get a lot of more followers when you put some videos of WH Fantasy or 40K miniatures.
    1) More followers through WH videos
    2) Greater change of support by Patreon
    3) More money
    4) Suscribe Paintalists YT channel 😉

    Greetings

  4. I was on my way to bed when I say this posted, and had to stay up and watch! Fantastic, you've done it again!

    I'm painting this gal tomorrow! 🙂

  5. Hooray it's here! Thank you.
    I just double checked BGG and you've only submitted the first video to the Imperial Assault page, might be worth taking a few minutes and submitting the rest. – Nigel

  6. Very nice painting as always! About green stuff,  those miniatures ( Imperial Assault) needs a lot of that..  Especially for the Rebel! …But still lovely minis! 😉

  7. Very nice tutorial again, the extra time invested in the music really paid off! Now I do feel I need to redo my model again 🙂

  8. Yes you're back :). Just great! Thank you very much for this one.

    How do you keep your pot lids so clean? I keep getting paint around the inside of my lids. It's very annoying.

  9. Thank you I really enjoy ur tutorials. So easy to follow, I started painting my zombiecide figures using ur earlier vids and they really helped. I have now started my star wars figures so look forward to the remainder. Please don't stop 🙂

  10. Awesome tutorial! Very high production quality…it's always nice to see the mini grow into the finished product.

  11. Absolutely excellent video, the clarity of instruction is superb and the ease of emulating these paint schemes is brilliant! Please keep sharing with us!

  12. Great video. Just as you posted the new video, the utility company accidentally cut through the main fiber optic connection for my area. It took them a while to fix it.

  13. Sorastro just took my Patreon virginity 😀
    It is not much but just want to support.
    Keep it up Sorastro ~!

  14. Great tutorial as always and brilliant results – thanks for all your hard work. One thing though. Can you do us a favour and not obscure the finished look at the model with the list of paints and patrons? We want to see your amazing models in all their exposed glory. 🙂 Thanks

  15. Congratulations to another great video for beginner painters and advanced painters. Im always smiling when I see that another new video is uploaded.
    As Im hearing you have experimented a little with leading Basslines and some different sounds in the backround. As a musician myself I have to say :"very nice, sir". The quality of your videos is undisputed.

  16. Tabletop stanard hevsay and paint it like a master. Love the videos and im so jaleous of your skills 🙂

  17. Great work. I'm a beginner and am about to start on my Imp assault minis. 1 question about supplies, a lot of colors come up over and over, like Nuln Oil. Do you get a fair amount of coverage from a single pot?

  18. As usual you did a great job! 🙂 Watching your tutorials has done wonders for my own painting. Thank you for producing these great videos!

  19. You can put the Green Stuff lump in water to slow down the drying process while you're working on the models.

  20. For shading the jacket wouldn't it be possible to use Army painter's Jumpsuit shader instead?

    I have been speculating on which colors from Army painter could be used, with your nice step by step it is a bit easier to figure out which substitute paints to use, your tutorial are a great help for painting, well adleast for me 🙂

  21. I'm new to painting iniatures (well, appropriately.) Where can I find white primer for these? Whenever I google White Primer for miniatures it keeps going to white primer spray paint for industrial spray paint, and I'm sure that's not what you're using.

  22. I don't quite understand why you are using the green stuff. Is just used to cover up the gaps in the model?

  23. On this model you are highlighting quite a bit. How and where do you know to highlight? The jacket, the trousers and all of the black parts.

  24. Wonderful job! :I have most of the paints you used but I need a few more to add to my own models. Thanks for listing the supplies you used at the end of the video!

  25. Just a quick question as I'm making a list of all the paints, in the video and in the list at the end you refer to Runefang Silver, did you mean Runefang Steel?

  26. Really nice tutorial as usual.
    And what are the musical credits ? I like so much the music on your SW tutorial videos.

  27. I have you to thank for getting me into the rewarding (and sometimes a little frustrating) hobby of miniature painting! You make it look so easy, but I feel like I'm slowly getting the hang of it. I wish I'd found the Patreon site earlier, but thanks again for all the hard work!

  28. You videos are very professionally done (except that white spirits jar in the first two. lol).  Great Work! These are great tutorials and most beginning painters should watch these.

  29. Thanks for another excellently produced video!

    I have a problem though: I often have to do a lot of scrolling around in the video to catch the exact moment where you show/say which colours you are using in the current step. A possible solution to this problem would be to show the colour (or mix of colours) in a corner of the screen for the duration of the step.

  30. This series is insanely awesome, and I can't tell you how much I appreciate you doing it. You have made my life a lot easier when it comes to painting my Star Wars minis. I have been recommending this series to everyone I know who own this game and look forward to seeing more. I highly recommend this to anyone who is beginning or hell even skilled painters can learn some neat tricks.

  31. I absolutely love these videos. Wasn't gonna paint my minis because I'm scared of ruining them. But you have given me the confidence to give it a go. Thanks!

  32. This is an amazing series, thank you so much for creating it! It finally got me to take the plunge, order a ton of paints and equipment, and begin painting my Imperial Assault minis this weekend. I've always felt painting minis was way too technical for me, but your videos make it seem like a very accessible hobby.

    One question: What do I do if I mess up? For someone newly getting into the hobby this seems like the most major question that stopped me dabbling previously. Have I ruined my mini?

    Looking forward to seeing more! 🙂

  33. Love this series, as this is now my new hobby.  I have learned a tremendous amount from these, thanks for all your great work

  34. These are brilliant!  Thank you and keep up the great work!
    This series really does inspire me to give painting the figs a try.

  35. Hello, I love these videos! I was wondering if you had any plans to extend the series to the expansions as well?

  36. Very good. I've just went back to painting my space hulk miniatures I've had sitting for a while. I've learned loads from watching your vids. Very simple, but impressive end results. Not into Star Wars as much now because I'm older, I might pick this set up just to paint the miniatures.

  37. Have you tried using a very thinned Tamiya clear yellow to help glaze the orange parts of the jacket?
    I tried this on a few old Star Wars pilots' flight suits, and after some trial and error, found it works quite nicely.
    They're a lot smaller than the new figures, but I've already tried this technique on 54mm figures, with successes aplenty.
    Love how you do the hair on this figure.
    I sometimes mix a little dark blue or brown into the mix for highlights on black haired figures, as I find using grey tends to make them seem "old aged" at times.
    I got the idea for blue in the mix from comic books, where they use it for the shine on someones hair.
    All the best
    Paul

  38. Sorastro, love your stuff. I am inspired to get into miniature painting by watching this! I'm wondering if you have a list of things for a beginner to buy? Would be great if you could get me off to a solid start!

    Awesome videos!

  39. Orange is a typically tough color to paint with. I've been using Vallejo Model and Game oranges and was unable to get a good solid base coat down with anything less than 3 layers. My solution was to use almost no thinner (water). Not ideal, but even that failed to cover 100%. How did you find the Citadel orange? Oh, and thanks for another brilliant tutorial!

  40. Sorastro – When/why would someone use white, black or grey primer? I'm new and I'm not sure how that is determined. Thanks for all your time spent on these videos, it has enabled someone like me who never thought of painting to start!

  41. Excellent work. I be been trying to do a good job with this figure for over a month since I bought the main set. This is really a tough figure to paint with all the mold lines and a few imperfections. I consider myself to be near professional grade in my painting, but this one is giving me fits. Lol. Great job and thanks for serving as my online guide painting these things.

  42. Just started painting minis for the first time in 20 years after buying a partially painted 2nd hand copy of this game (some of the stormtroopers have been done somewhat shoddily). That said I haven’t got any better since I was a kid. This channel has been invaluable and rather awe inspiring. Thanks.

  43. Is this the best of the rebels to start with? I've never painted miniatures before and I always end up playing the rebels

  44. Fantastic tutorial, I found this so easy to follow and you made painting the orange so much less a daunting experience as I have struggled with orange in the past. Thanks heaps 😀 Your channel is the best!

  45. Hey Sorrastro – quick question…. at about 13:00, you mention that applying thin layers helps build up a nice smooth transition. When I do that with a surface I haven't applied a wash to, it works great, but I find that when I do that on something I've washed, I get this chalkiness that I don't like. Could it be that I'm thinning too much? Or is it a brushstroke technique thing? I realize it's a big ask without pics, but curious if you've encountered this before!

    Edited to add that maybe the solution is to be more selective in where I put the wash? Use it more as a highlight-in-reverse?

  46. I always watch these videos before starting to paint my miniatures and it fills me with a sense of confidence.
    Then I start painting my miniatures and in the end it looks like a 2 year old threw a bunch of melted crayons at the mini.
    >.<'

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