Star Wars Imperial Assault Painting Guide Ep.16: Han Solo

Hello, and welcome to Episode 16
of Sorastro’s Star Wars painting series. In this episode, we’re going to paint Han Solo from Fantasy Flight’s Star Wars: Imperial Assault. For Han Solo, I’m going to be giving
more attention to the skin tone than I have with previous
Caucasian characters from the series. And, I’ll be trying out an optional non-metallic
metal approach for the blaster pistol. We’ll still be following the the usual steps, which means: priming the miniature white, laying down the base colours, adding some shades, and then then highlights before adding some finishing touches. Let’s begin with step 2. Before painting, you will need to decide
if you are going to drybrush the pistol following the method explored in previous episodes, or if you’re going to use the more time-consuming
method of manual highlighting as I’m doing. If you choose the quicker drybrush method,
then now would be the time to do so. If you’re going to manually highlight the pistol
– as I’ll be doing later on – then you you can begin applying the base
colours right away in any order you like. I’m going to begin by giving the skin
a base coat of Bugman’s Glow. This gives us quite a dark foundation to work from and will help create a rich,
high-contrast finish for the skin later on. For the cream-coloured shirt, I’m using a roughly
equal mix of Screaming Skull and Ceramite White. I like to retouch mistakes as I go along. I’m now using some Steel Legion Drab
for the belt and holster. I’m also painting the pistol grip with this. This may seem a shade too light but will look fine
once we’ve added the wash in the next step. Han Solo’s upper belt is a darker colour,
so I’m using Rhinox Hide. And I almost missed the holster strap on the leg, which I’m also painting with the Steel Legion Drab. For the hair, I’m using a roughly 2:1 mix
of Mournfang Brown and Kantor Blue. Incidentally, I tend to use an older brush
for thinning and mixing my paints and not usually the brush I actually paint with. I’m then going to add some Tallarn Sand
to this mix to create a broad highlight. Some pure Tallarn Sand can then be used
for the very top of the head for a final highlight. I’m doing this highlighting now, so that the shade we’ll be adding later
has a chance to blend the layers down for us. For the trousers, I’m using pure Kantor Blue. I’ll be increasing the level of purple here
with the wash in the next stage. As always, we shouldn’t settle for anything less
than a truly deep, solid finish, which might mean we end up applying
up to three or four thin layers. We’re also now going paint the broken
red stripe down the side of Han’s trousers. Our plan is to create a neat, solid stripe first, which we can then break up
with some thin strips of Kantor Blue. This should be a lot easier than trying
to paint each red strip individually. So I’m going to begin by painting
the solid red stripe using Mephiston Red. Throughout this video, I’m using a size 2 brush, which might sound big for fine detail work like this, but it’s the fineness of the point that
matters more than the size of the brush. Notice how close to the brush end I’m holding
the brush to give me maximum control. I’m then painting over the line a couple more times
until I’m satisfied it’s as bright as it’s going to get. Since we’ve yet to shade or highlight this area, we can easily neaten up the stripe
with our plain Kantor Blue if we need to. This is the reason for painting this stripe now
rather than after adding the shades and highlights. Once we’re happy we have a neat solid line,
we can brighten the red using some Evil Sunz Scarlet. We now break the line up with the Kantor Blue, nicely recreating this small
but important detail on Han’s outfit. The only slight disadvantage to painting this line now, is that we’ll have to avoid painting over it
with the shades and highlights later on. Now we’re going to paint the black areas. For the gun and boots, I’m using a dark 2:1 mix
of Black and Mechanicus Standard Grey. For the waist coat – to create of a subtle bit of variety – I’m going to add about a brushful
of Kantor Blue to this mix, to create a slightly different shade of black. This is a subtle touch and of course entirely optional. Finally, I’m going to paint the belt buckles. For this, I’m going to use Runefang Steel, but as this is quite a thin layer paint,
I might first lay down some Celestra Grey to more easily cover the parts of the buckles
that have been hit with the brown. Here’s the Celestra Grey… ..and now the Runefang Steel. Now would be a good time to do some
final retouching of any scrappy edges before we move on to the shading. In no particular order, these are the shades
we can use to begin giving Han Solo some depth. For the skin, I’m using Reikland Fleshshade. For the belt and holster, I’m using Agrax Earthshade. I’m also hitting the buckles with this
to give them a more tarnished look. To give the leather a darker, more worn look, I’m going to apply two or three layers
of this shade to really build up the depth. I’m now going to mix an equal quantity of
Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil to shade the hair. And I’m also using this to shade the shirt. The reason I’ve added the Nuln Oil
is not so much because I want to darken the shade, but mostly to reduce the level of brown. I’m adding some additional shade to further
deepen the tone in the darkest parts of the hair. I’m now using pure Nuln Oil for all of the black areas. I might add a second layer of this
to achieve a deeper black. Finally, I’m creating an equal mix of Druchii Violet
and Drakenhof Nightshade for the trousers. We should take care here to avoid the red stripe. Once dry, we’re ready to begin the highlights. I’m going to begin by highlighting the skin. In summary, I’ll be highlighting up using three colours with mixtures of adjacent tones in between, which means five separate tones in total. So we’ll begin with the Bugman’s Glow, which we’ll then mix equally
with some Cadian Fleshtone. We’ll then use pure Cadian Fleshtone, which we’ll then mix equally with some Kislev Flesh, and our final lightest shade
will then be some pure Kislev Flesh. You could save time and effort,
however, by skipping the mixed tones and just using the three pure skin tones. The results might not look as smooth,
but will still be plenty good enough for the table top. So I’m beginning with a reapplication of Bugman’s Glow. Reapplying base colours like this
often doesn’t show much of a difference, but I still find it useful as it helps me
to get to know the miniature and begin planning how the subsequent
highlights are going to go. I’m now adding a roughly equal amount
of the Cadian Fleshtone for the next highlight. Notice when applying a fresh tone,
I tend to start with the hands, so I get a chance to test the colour and consistency
before working on the more important face area. This highlight is still covering the majority of the skin, but we’re leaving a nice bit of shadow in places
like beneath the chin and in the eye sockets, and we can also leave the lips untouched. Now we can use some pure Cadian Fleshtone. This is the main mid-tone colour
and should cover a good portion of the skin. As usual, the paint should always be thinned
enough to allow for some translucency, and we should aim to build the highlight up
in slightly reducing areas. We can see that the skin is already looking
quite similar in tone to that of my own hand. Next, we’re going to mix in
a roughly equal quantity of Kislev Flesh. We are now really focusing on the smaller raised areas
such as the knuckles and fingertips for the hands, and for the face, we want to emphasise
the forehead, cheekbones, and bridge of the nose. We can now finish the skin tone off with a small
final highlight using some pure Kislev Flesh, hitting just a small spot within
the previously emphasised areas. These last few highlights are for me
where the real magic happens, as each brush stroke gives the character
that extra bit of dimension and life. We’ll return to the the face
for some finishing touches in a while. Now, let’s highlight the rest of the miniature. For the hair, I’m adding just a few gentle
highlights with some Tallarn Sand. If you find yourself going a little too far
with any of these highlights, we can always tone them down
with a little of the previously-applied shade. For the shirt, I’m simply reapplying some
thinned Screaming Skull & white mix. I’m applying this in a couple of thin layers,
covering up any unwanted patches of shade but leaving areas where the wash
has created a nice bit of shadow. I’m adding additional layers to the top surface
of the arms, creating a bright, solid tone but allowing the shade that’s built up in the underarm
– and some of the creases – to remain. I’m also giving some extra emphasis
to the upper chest area. I’m leaving the upper, darker belt as it is, and for the lighter belt and holster,
I’m using Balor Brown, although most shades of light brown – including
Tallarn Sand – would also be fine for this. For this highlight, I’m applying mostly
small hits to the edges and corners. For the trousers, I’m starting with Kantor Blue,
mixed with a tiny amount of Evil Sunz Scarlet. This will be almost the same colour as the shaded tone and should cover all of the flat and raised areas. Just take care to avoid the red stripe. We can then add a small amount
of white to create a lighter tone, which we’re using to provide a broad highlight to the
upturned parts of the thighs and raised ridges of fabric. One more small portion of white mixed in
will let us add a smaller, final highlight, focusing on places like the knees
and inner parts of the highlights already added. For the boots, I’ll be relying mostly on some
gloss varnish – to be added later – to provide some natural highlights for us. I would still be tempted to add
some of my own, however, starting with some Eshin Grey,
which I’ve darkened with a little black. Here, I’m placing an emphasis on the toe caps, as well as the creases,
both at the rear and front of the boots. I’m then following that
with a small hit of pure Eshin Grey. For the jacket, I’m going to use the same
black and Eshin Grey mix that I used for the boots, and I’m going to add a small amount of Kantor Blue
– once again to introduce a subtle bit of variety. We only need a gentle highlight here, focusing on the tops of the shoulders
and the raised pockets and the folds on the back. If this was black leather, then I would
take the highlights quite a bit further, but for a matte black fabric, this is fine. We’re now going to highlight the pistol, and instead of a quick and easy metallic drybrush, I’m going to spend a bit more time
building up some high-contrast highlights to give the impression of a glinting black metallic finish. I’m starting with some Mechanicus Standard Grey,
darkened with a little black. I’m painting most of the tip of Han’s pistol with this
as it has a lighter metallic shade. I’m then carefully highlighting most of the edges
and raised details on the rest of the gun. I’m keeping the highlights quite tightly focused
on a few small edges and protrusions, and leaving the larger flat areas black. I’m then hitting all of these areas again
with some pure Mechanicus Standard Grey. As before, I’m covering most of the muzzle with this. I’m then mixing in some Administratum Grey… ..and highlighting a more selective area on the muzzle. And once again, adding some glinting
highlights to the rest of the gun. I’m then using some pure Administratum Grey. You could of course stop highlighting
as soon as you have a look you’re happy with. I’ve chosen to create a final, even lighter mix
with the addition of some White Scar. These last few highlights want
to be as small as possible. We then tidy up the muzzle with a little black. Even if the highlighting isn’t perfect up close, the gun should now have a cleaner, more eye-catching
look when viewed from a normal gaming distance. To finish the highlights off, I’m going to brighten
the large buckle with a final coat of Runefang Steel. And now we’re ready for some finishing touches. The first finishing touch I’m going to add,
is a thin blue glaze to the chin area, using a roughly 5:1 mix of medium
with Drakenhof Nightshade. The first layer of this will be barely perceptible. But two or three layers should
give us a subtle shift of tone, giving a cooler look to the stubbly areas, and by contrast giving the lips
a warmer, more fleshy appearance. For the eyes, I’m applying a slither of white,… ..followed by a dab of dark grey in the centre of each. Any oversized parts of the eyes can then
be tidied up with a little Bugman’s Glow. To finish the face off, I’m adding some eyebrows using the original hair base tone mix –
Mournfang Brown with Kantor Blue. I’ve thinned this down and am applying
a very narrow line just above each eye. After spraying with a matte varnish, we can now give the boots a shine
with some thinned gloss varnish. Now we either paint the base or – as I’m doing – rebase the figure, using the steps from Episode 10. And Han Solo is complete. Thank you for watching and liking
the video and – if you’re a subscriber – for helping the channel recently
break the 10,000 subscriber mark. If you really like the video,
and would like to help me make more, hit the Patreon link and join
the growing number of patrons who are helping to fund the hours
that are invested in creating this work. As a token of gratitude to existing patrons, I have painted a second Han Solo
to be given away in a live draw in the coming days. Join me again soon when we return
to finish off the remaining base set heroes from Star Wars: Imperial Assault. Happy Painting!

59 thoughts on “Star Wars Imperial Assault Painting Guide Ep.16: Han Solo

  1. To all who are gonna watch this (and all the other) excellent tutorial(s) , please please please, become a patreon! These are easily the best miniature painting guides on the net. Sorastro, as always, respect…

  2. Your videos are so informative. If you do the Hired Guns can you make one of the Rodians have a purplish hue. That's how I want to paint one of them, and the other Greedo looking.

  3. Hey Sorastro! Wonderful job!! Question for you, have you ever had colors bleed together or dull when applying the matte varnish? I sometimes find that I do and thought that maybe I was spraying too much but I want to make sure they are protected as I know the game will get a lot of play.

  4. Loving every entry in the series, and i'm well past halfway painting my Core set using your videos as a guideline. One question, did I miss the Fenn Signis video? Was hoping to finish my set with your tutorials before starting to purchase the expansions and addon characters. Thanks for your amazing work!

  5. Again, just amazing work. This is fantastic! I am so much looking forward to the amazing music – I really love it. Just to know, have you any idea of when, or if, your Blood Rage video comes out? 🙂

  6. Once again thanks for a great tutorial. How long would you say it takes to paint one figure from start to finish (not counting drying time)?

  7. Are you only going to be doing one (type) of figure each month? Do you intend to show tutorials for all figures including the future expansions?

  8. Amazing job, as always! One thing I did notice, Kantor Blue and Balor Brown are missing in your paint list above (the one on the YouTube page).

  9. Stunning job. I think this might be your best miniature yet, and a great video to go with it. I'm looking forward to painting my Han, following the guide.

  10. Dear Sarastro, you have excelled yourself-yet again! Just as well I've a few weeks to catch up or attempt to whilst I am on leave! Please have a good a safe Christmas and a great new year to you & Family. Kind Regards Johnny

  11. I always see you mixing with a brush… is that the same one you paint with? How do you keep such a fine point?! My brushes seem to fray so quick!
    Love love your videos! Wow!

  12. You are inspiring. I am honestly blown away with your finished products. These tutorials are all so helpful and really give me inspiration. Please keep it up!!

  13. looking for someone in the US to do a repaint on my Black Series Hoth Han (face and jacket) something similar to this: nerdist. com/star-wars-black-series-toys-repainted-to-startling-life/

  14. Great work, but he should have the blood stripe on both legs, not just the left leg. You should be able to see it on the small part of his pants below the holster.

  15. Awesome work, as always. 🙂

    BTW – Am I the only one who thinks that Han's pistol is a bit skewed? Scope's shape doesn't look right in my opinion.

  16. For blonde hair shading, I sometimes wash in a very thinned down olive drab/green, which gives just a subtle but very nice depth to the folds in the hair.
    I got this tip from the late Shepard Paine, and didn't think it would look okay at first, but after some practice with more and more thinned paint, it actually really does look good.
    I tried it out on 54mm figures first, as the detail is greater on them, and worked my way down to 15mm.
    It's a huge learning curve, but my miniatures are much better now than when I first started, using enamel paints as a child.
    My eye painting has come on too, and now I can even get in colored irises on figures, although I now have to use a HUGE magnifying glass to get detail that small in.
    I have the utmost respect for you, Sorastro, as you are showing many young modelers tips and tricks to help them, as well as showing us Old Sweats a few new techniques too.
    I'll share some tips of my own with you as I remember them, so hope you don't mind 🙂
    Respect always

  17. Nice Job Soratro (as always)!
    The day you start with Kingdom Death: Monster OR Malifaux OR the Knight Model's Batman series, I will be in your patreon thing. That's a given.

  18. I didnt comment that earlier, but face looks awsome. As always great tutorial, especially when its about so legendary character. cheers

  19. Wow! Your videos are both very enjoyable and, dare I say, therapeutic! I could watch them for hours! Excellent soundtrack by the way. It easily adds to the awesomeness =) It is always a pleasure to watch a true artist at work.

  20. Hey, I've found that these videos are very helpful, but you have a different painting method than I used before approaching Imperial Assault. Do you ever highlight your base colors before shading/washing your figures? I seem to be getting a chalkier effect when highlighting after the washes.

  21. This is a really excellent paint job but I think you might have missed the second buckle on his holster strap (it's at the back I think). All the same consider me subscribed.

  22. Your videos are very helpful and informative, your grasp of color is superb – knowing how to darken or lighten a tone without straight black or white, for instance. The highlights look great and your work is neat and tidy.
    But man, you really need to work on your brush care! You must be going through brushes every month or two. Yes, it's most important for a brush to have a good tip, but if you keep getting paint up under your ferrule and letting it dry (as I can see on your main brushes) they won't keep a tip for long.
    Try to avoid dunking the brush, rinse them more often while working, and clean with brush soap after each session. If you still have dried paint along the ferrule, you can use something like natural turpenoid to loosen and remove that.
    Teri Litorco did a great quick video on brush care:

  23. Bahahahaaah. Oh my. After I was finished with the flesh tones. Han now looks like the face from Texas Chainsaw Massacre.

  24. Looking at the striping you're doing on his trousers made me wonder whether you ever use a magnifying glass/light for fine detail, or whether it's all by eye..?

  25. Holy cow! This video is fantastic. I don't know anything about painting (have a co-worker who is going to teach me a couple of weeks from now) but this guy makes it look so easy. This video has got me excited to start learning to paint.

  26. You know, I don't even own this game but I am watching ALL of these videos to learn as much ad I can and I am just increasingly stunned by the skill and patience and pure ability of you as a painter. I don't have a job right now so I can't become a patreon but I would LOVE to. And if I could just paint anything with you, that would be an amazing learning experience. You're brilliant!

  27. Still kind of new to painting, what do you use to clean your brushes and what kind of brushes do you use? Thanks again good work.

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