Star Wars Imperial Assault Painting Guide Ep.19: Mak Eshka’rey


Hello, and welcome to Episode 19
of Sorastro’s Star Wars painting series. In this episode, we’re going to
complete the base-set miniatures by painting Mak Eshka’rey from Fantasy
Flight’s Star Wars: Imperial Assault. Here’s an overview of the steps we’ll be following: We’ll begin by priming the miniature
with either a black or a white primer. We’ll then apply the base colours,
along with some metallic drybrushing for the gun. We’re then going to work section by section,
applying a mixture of highlights and shade to create a pleasing level of contrast. Our finishing touches will include painting the eyepiece and applying a thin glaze to the surrounding areas
to create a simple glowing effect. Let’s begin by jumping straight in with step 2. For the gun, I’m going to combine a metallic drybrush
with some additional manual highlights later on as we did for Fenn Signis in episode 18. So I’m going to begin by applying a dark grey mix
of black and Mechanicus Standard Grey. I’m then going to give it a good
drybrush with some Leadbelcher, which we’ll be dulling down
later with some Nuln Oil. I’m switching to a smaller flat brush
to get into the harder-to-reach areas. With that done, we can now paint
the other black areas of the miniature, which includes the gloves, belt, ammo pouches,
harness, knee pads and boots. We don’t need to be especially neat here
as we’ve yet to paint the surrounding areas, so we can more-or-less cover
the entire bottom half of the miniature. For the green body suite, I’m providing
a base coat of Waaagh! Flesh, although other shades, such as
Caliban Green, would also be fine. We can also paint the lens
of the eyepiece with this. And I’m painting the rest
with a small hit of the dark grey. I’m going to give the skin and fur
a base coat of Rakarth Flesh. I’ve also chosen to paint the hair tie
with the Waaagh! Flesh. And finally, I’m picking out the various
buckles with some Leadbelcher. As usual, I like to retouch as I go along. Now we’re ready for some highlights and shades. I’m going to begin by highlighting the skin and fur and will start with a roughly equal mix
of the original base tone – Rakarth Flesh – and some Flayed One Flesh. This is going to cover most of the fur
except for places like the gaps between the fingers, the roots of the hair, and the creases
that define the facial details. The reason I’ve chosen to paint
the highlights before adding the shade, is because we can more easily use the shade
to help articulate the furry texture than we could by using highlights. We could also use a drybrush, but for such a small area, I felt that
shading down – rather than drybrushing up – would give us more control
over the gradation of dark to light. Next, I’m going to use some pure Flayed One Flesh. This is still going to cover the main flat areas,
such as the surface of the arms and the top of the head. As this gives us a more noticeable step up in lightness, I’m working with a little more care around the face. I don’t usually wait too long between layers and am happy to work pretty continuously around
the figure whilst highlighting in thin layers like this. I’m also adding extra emphasis to places like
the cheekbones, brow, and tips of the ears, ensuring that I’ve really maxed out the highlight
with two or three layers before lightening the tone. I’m now going to lighten the Flayed One Flesh
with the addition of some white, and I’m really focusing on the topmost areas of the skin. One more portion of white mixed in
gives me my lightest highlight, which I’m using to emphasise the most
raised details – especially around the face. We don’t need to worry too much
about over-highlighting at this stage, as we can do as much toning down as we like
with the shade we’ll be applying in a moment. I’m now going to create a shade using
equal parts of Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade, along with just a hint of Druchii Violet, and I’ll be thinning this with a good
portion of Lahmian Medium. I’m then using this to shade the area down,
giving us some depth, but also helping to bring out
some of the texture of the hair and fur. We can apply this first layer quite liberally, although I’m leaving the brightest areas –
such as the very top of the head – untouched. Because we have thinned
the shade with some medium, this mix is now performing the function
of both a wash and a glaze. We want it to collect in the recesses,
creating some depth like a wash, but we also want it to settle across the surface, allowing us to subtlety tint and darken those areas. For the forearms for example, I’m using the mix
to gently darken the undersides, whilst removing excess from the top-most surface. We should give a few minutes to allow our
first layer to dry before applying the second. Now I might be a little more focused in my application, concentrating more on the creases
or areas we want to be darkened the most – a bit like the way we highlight except in reverse. We can build up the depth of tone
using up to three or four layers of this. Here, we can see how effectively this approach
renders the subtle furry textures. Next, I’m going to provide a neat wash of
Coelia Greenshade for the green body suit. And now we can shade all of the black areas,
including the gun, with some Nuln Oil. Next we’re going to highlight the green body suit, and these are the three tones I’ve selected that most
easily give us the closest match to the character art. Alternative colours – such as Loren Forest
for example – would also be fine, however. I’m going to begin with a reapplication
of the base tone – Waaagh! flesh – covering most of the green areas
except for the deepest creases and recesses. I’m then lightening the tone by mixing in
an equal quantity for Warboss Green. And now, I’m using some pure Warboss Green. For flat areas like this leg armour, I might create a gentle gradient
just to add some tonal interest. As always, patiently applying multiple thin layers is the way to achieve a strong tone
and smooth transitions. Next, I’m going to mix in some Skarsnik Green
to lighten the tone in a couple of stages, which I’m using to create some smaller, more
focused highlights within those already covered. And I’m now using some pure Skarsnik Green
for the smallest highlights. This now looks pretty good, but because we want to give the impression
that the eyepiece is giving off a yellow-green light, I’m going to mix in some Flash Gitz Yellow to add some additional highlights
just to the right arm and collar. I’m then adding a little white to create
my final, brightest highlight for these areas. Before leaving the green areas, I’ve chosen to do
a little further manipulation of the contrast and smooth out of some of
the transitions with a thin glaze, made of Coelia Greenshade,
mixed with some medium. Applied selectively, this allows me to add
a little extra depth where necessary. For the black areas, I’m going to begin
highlighting with some Eshin Grey. Because there’s quite a lot
of black on the miniature, I’m going to highlight in a few more
stages than I might usually do. For the next couple of highlights, I’m mixing in
increasing quantities of Administratum Grey. And for the brightest highlight,
I’m using pure Administratum Grey. If the highlights end up looking
a little too grey and overexposed, we can always use a black glaze to tone it down
and bring back a little depth. I’m also going to create a very thin purple glaze
using some Daemonette Hide. This is to gently introduce a purple tint to
the knee pads, as can be seen in the character art. Because I quite like the way
this compliments the green, I’ve also decided to use it on the boots. I’m now going to highlight the gun, and to help differentiate it
from all of the other black areas, I’m creating a unique mixture of Ironbreaker,
mixed with some Karak Stone – in a roughly 2:1 ratio. This helps preserve the slightly tarnished,
metallic look of the weapon. I’ve decided here that I’m unhappy with
the moulding on the top of the scope, so I’m using a craft knife to shave it back,
creating a smooth texture. It’s never too late to make adjustments like this. For the final gun highlight, I’m mixing in a little white. We’re now ready to add some finishing touches. Now we’re going to paint the eyepiece. As this is the unique focal point of the miniature,
it’s worth spending a little extra time on. I’m going to begin by giving it a coat of Moot Greet. We then want to create some kind of gradient, and I’ve chosen to fade from dark at
top of the lens to light at the bottom. You could just as easily fade from light to dark or create your gradient
going from left to right if you wish. To start the gradient off, I’m going to mix
some Flash Gitz Yellow into the Moot Green and paint the lower half of the lens. Because I’ve only added a small amount,
we can barely see the difference. And now, I’m adding some additional yellow
and applying my next layer. After two thin layers of this, we can
begin to see the gradient taking form. We can now carry on adding additional yellow
to the mix and gently layering it on, gradually reducing the area we cover
the further down the lens we go. And I’ve also chosen to paint
the top edge with the pale tone. To prevent the hue becoming too yellow, from this point we will now be adding white
to produce the next few layers. The final, lightest highlight should
just hit the very edge of the lens. And now, I’m neatening the edge with a little dark grey. Next, we’re going to create a greenish-yellow glaze using Lamenters Yellow
and a small amount of Waywatcher Green. I’m then thinning this with some Lahmian Medium before coating the lens to tie the layers together. We can then apply this to
the surrounding areas of the miniature to give the appearance of light
being emitted from the eyepiece, as can be seen in the character art. I would take this glaze quite far down
the length of the gun too. A second layer can be added to increase
the intensity the closer we get to the lens. For the uncovered left eye,
I’ve chosen to simply paint it black. The only other remaining details, are the pale lights
we can see on the accessories strapped to the leg. For this, I’m making a light blue
using Lothern Blue and some white, although most shades of blue would be fine. I’ve also decided to brighten some of
the metal work with a little Ironbreaker. Once we’re happy with the look of the miniature,
we can go ahead and protect it with a matte varnish. And I’ve chosen to apply a thinned gloss varnish
for the lens and for the left eye. Once Mak is rebased, he’s
ready to join his fellow Rebels, which completes the last miniature of
the base-set game of Star Wars: Imperial Assault. Thank you for watching and especially
if you have subscribed to the channel. Although it feels good to have
finished the base set miniatures, there is no shortage of exciting expansion figures that
I’m looking forward to covering in future episodes. To keep up to date with what I’m working on next,
you can connect with me on Facebook or Twitter, or visit my newly-created website at sorastro.com. My sincerest thanks must go to the patrons who’s loyalty and support is helping me
to turn this work into a full-time occupation. Quite soon, you will notice a doubling of my output as the income from Patreon begins
to replace that of my current day job. Stay tuned as we continue painting miniatures
from the expansions to Star Wars: Imperial Assault. Happy painting!

37 thoughts on “Star Wars Imperial Assault Painting Guide Ep.19: Mak Eshka’rey

  1. Lovely, as always!
    More a curiosity than anything else: I noticed you use Nuln oil in almost all – if not in all – videos. In this video the flask starts to be quite empty.
    Is it the same flask you used for all the miniatures for the Star Wars set or did you use more than one?

  2. Love your stuff Sorastro! Your technique is fantastic and you lay it out so well for beginners! Please Please Please paint some more Descent figures though! Great stuff!!

  3. I love these tutorials and consider you to be The Great One. Any chance you'll do some Kingdom Death at some point or is it Imperial Assault for the foreseeable future? Really enjoyed the Black Plague episode from a couple months ago. You're the best and I'm happy to hear you're being able to make a career out of this!

  4. Wow. This is amazing. I love everything about your videos, down to the amazing music. Superb job sir!

  5. Mak's my favorite (I'm a Bothan fan, sue me. :P), so i' thrilled to finally see him in your style! I was a little iffy on the fur color choices earlier in the video, but you didn't disappoint with the end product!

  6. good tutorial as always my friend!
    I was going to prime some minis today but the weather is kinda rainy, I've read that humidity could negatively affect painting and spray priming, what do you think about that? any suggestions?

  7. Dear Sorastro, You have excelled yourself….yet again! I thoroughly enjoyed your tutorial. In particular the back ground music, in parts reminded me of Stargate Atlantis….or was it just me? I wait with baited breath for your next instalment! Kind Regards Johnny

  8. Man, these are a real pleasure to watch. I stopped painting miniatures like 15 years ago, but your videos take me back to better days ;). Thank you!

  9. Its amazing work, Im so happy I didnt paint Mak yet, glad U did it first πŸ™‚ Question, will U paint other miniatures from Return to Hoth and Twinshadows expansions ?

  10. Great tutorial and impressive attention to details. I have little suggestion about the music: could you decrease volume of this part [ 1:00 – 1:03 ] in the next IA videos? The last 'bwah' is VERY loud (much louder than your voice and the rest of the music) and annoying. Please consider this as a friendly advice, because I really enjoyed all of the background music. It reminded me Deus Ex (computer aRPG) and old Polish reality legal program '997' (America's Most Wanted was very similar). Great work, I would love to listen this music as stand-alone tracks. πŸ™‚

  11. You're just.. the man Sorastro. The amount of work for these videos gotta be insane ! my mind warps just thinking about the logistics

  12. Wow I just love looking at it go from this plain beige figure to something that looks almost alive! I want to paint my set of Imperial Assault but I'm worried about botching the whole thing up. I need something to practice on haha.

    Great stuff man keep it uP!

  13. What kind of brushes do you use? And how do you care for them? I seem to go thru them fast… they fray so quickly.

  14. Excellent video – thank you! Can I just check – what are you using to thin your paints please (and how much) – for normal painting that is – not glazes where you refer to using Lahmian medium.

  15. Congratulations Sorastros. I was really impressed by the amount of details you can add to the miniature. Thanks for the videos.

  16. Another great video Sorastro, thank you for sharing! I finally took the plunge and bought the game and the two expansions.

  17. Love these videos and I am using them to paint my Imperial Assault minis. Any chance you'll continue with more videos of the newer models? Thanks again for the excellent tutorials.

  18. Hello Sorastro! I have a question for you

    I starded painting IA miniatures, i'm using an acrylic Arexons spray for the prep step, and then Citadel colors and an Arexons transparent spray for protecting the miniatures.

    Unfortunatly i'm periodically founding white spots on some finished minies, just like if the color goes away.
    Do you think it might be the spray?

  19. I really enjoy you're videos. Your production value is extremely high with the step by step picture guide in the beginning and all the work you do along the way to adequately show how the miniature was painted. It must be a tremendous amount of work and I appreciate it immensely.

    but… are you sponsored by Game's Workshop or something? It seems like most of your videos boil down to "How to Paint Han Solo using only $200 dollars worth of paint!" You acheive a really great result, but surely you could get similar results with a paint list only half as large.

  20. So just wondering how long this took you roughly? As i find i get bored or distracted and then discouraged at how long a model takes to paint.

  21. Really nice painting! I want to you use new Bases from Microarts Studio too, because the figures look better. Do you make a bore hole into the foot of the miniature for the metal stick or what kind of metal stick do you use?

  22. Hello,
    thank you for the great Tutorials! Is it possible to use Nuln Oil with green paint instead of the Coelia Greenshade? does it works?

  23. Thank you for another amazing tutorial, I really like the skin tones you have done and also the lens. Fantastic work πŸ™‚ I'm going to paint Darth Vader and Luke Skywalker next and I can't wait to watch how you paint them. All the best

  24. I love your beautiful work.
    In this video you made the shading/wash after highlighting. Why dont you make this with the other figures too? It seems to create a more smooth transition, doesnΒ΄t it?

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