Star Wars Imperial Assault Painting Guide Ep.21: Rebel Saboteurs


Hello, and welcome to Episode 21
of Sorastro’s Star Wars painting series. In this episode, we’re going to paint the Rebel Saboteurs from Fantasy Flight Games’ Star Wars: Imperial Assault. For this tutorial, I will mostly be selecting colours
to match those of the box art for the miniatures. However, since they come in pairs, I’ve also taken the liberty of giving my
second saboteur an urban camo design – like we explored for the Trandoshans back in episode 8. These are the kind of units you could approach quite
freely when planning your own colour schemes. Here’s an overview of the painting stages: We’ll begin by priming the miniature with a white primer. We then apply the base colours
with extra care and patience as some of the details are quite intricate. We’ll then shade the miniature, and I’ll be using
some thinned shades for the light-coloured clothing to achieve a slightly more subtle
and gradual buildup of of tone, which will then require little or no highlighting. We can then highlight the miniature, focusing
primarily on the skin tone and the green accessories, before adding one or two final details
such as the Rebel symbol on the left shoulder. Let’s begin by applying the base colours. To capture the dull metallic finish of the gun
and other bits of metallic detailing, I’m going to apply a base coat of equal parts
Leadbelcher and Mechanicus Standard Grey. Some of these very small metallic clasps
and panels don’t need to be painted, to achieve a good tabletop standard. I’ve also chosen to use this colour for all of
the exposed cables and panels on the backpack. Once that’s done, I’m going to paint the skin,
which has an interesting turquoise hue, and I’m going to re-create this using an equal
mix of Sybarite Green and Temple Guard Blue. As usual, we apply two or three thin layers
to build up a nice, solid tone. Next, I’m going to clean up the long-sleeved vest
with some Ceramite White. And for the short-sleeved shirt,
I’m using some Screaming Skull. For all of the green accessories, including
the backpack, I’ll be using Castellan Green. For the trousers – which we can’t
actually see in the character art – I’ve chosen a base colour of Stormvermin Fur, and you may have other ideas of your own. And finally, I’ve chosen to paint the boots dark grey, using a mix of Mechanicus Standard Grey & black. For my second saboteur, I’ve chosen to use
the same urban camo design introduced in episode 8, which consists of a three-tone pattern using white,
Celestra Grey and Mechanicus Standard Grey. Once the base colours are complete,
we’re ready to do some shading. I’m going to begin by shading the skin
with some Coelia Greenshade. And for the green accessories,
we can apply some Athonian Camoshade. We can then use some Nuln Oil for the boots
and all of the metallic accessories. For the trousers, I’m using an equal
mix of Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade. For the lighter parts of the miniature, I’m going thin
the shade to produce a more subtle buildup of depth. So, for the short-sleeved shirt,
I’m using some Agrax Earthshade, which I’ve thinned with an equal quantity of medium. The first layer of this can cover the entire area. Once dry, we can then add an additional layer or two
just into the areas we want to be the darkest. We can take a similar approach with the white areas. This time, I’m thinning some Nuln Oil
with double the quantity of medium, to produce a lighter, more subtle mix. This approach helps to give
a smoother gradation from dark to light, and – because the lighter areas
have only had one thinned layer – they won’t need much highlighting, if any. Here, I’m applying a second and a third layer
into the underside of the arms and one or two other shadowed areas of white. I will also be using this to shade my camo design, once again, adding additional layers to deepen
the specific areas of shadow to my liking. With that done, we’re ready to add some highlights. We’re going to begin by highlighting the most
important area of the miniature – the skin. I’m going to start with the original
Sybarite Green and Temple Guard Blue mix, and I’m going to mix in a slightly
smaller portion of Loren Forest. Keeping the paint reasonably thin
and without overloading the brush, we can begin applying a broad layer of highlight, leaving the more blueish tone
in the recesses untouched. The biggest challenge here is creating
a smooth transition when highlighting the head. To achieve this, I’m thinning the paint even more
than usual – to an almost glaze-like consistency, and I’m then drawing the paint upwards
towards the brightest, top-most part of the head. This is going to be the first of several layers, so we shouldn’t worry too much
if the tone is a little uneven at this stage. After painting one area, I’ll move onto another, then return in a few minutes
to apply a second or third layer. Here, I’ve realised that I’ve possibly misinterpreted
the cheek bone for part of the goggles. I’m then going to begin lightening the tone
by mixing in some Nurgling Green. I’m now beginning my brush strokes
a little higher up on the head, and I’m once again drawing the paint upwards, leaving the greater concentration
of paint towards the top. In doing so, we’re looking to create
a smooth fading of the tone from the darker, more blueish tone at the bottom,
to the lighter, more greenish tone at the top. It’s important not to overload the brush
when working in this way, and getting the right amount of paint to cover
the desired area can be a delicate balance. After applying a couple of layers of this, we can add additional quantities of
the Nurgling Green for the lighter highlights. Although building up the highlights in multiple
layers like this does require some patience, it’s actually quite a forgiving way to work as any unevenness in one layer will be at least
partially obscured by the subsequent layers. Here, once again, you can see the paint being pulled up
and released to accumulate at the top of the head, which we want to be the brightest area of highlight. Here, I’ve lightened the mix
to an almost pure Nurgling Green. We can also use this to articulate
the ridges in the forehead. Alongside the highlights, we can also apply
a darker glaze to push the contrast a little further. For this, I’m thinning some Coelia Greenshade
with some medium in a roughly 5:1 ratio. We can then use this
to further darken the shadowed areas, and – if necessary –
to help smooth out the transitions. Notice that the cooler,
more blueish tone of the shadows nicely compliments the warmer,
more yellowish tone of the highlights. I’ve now mixed in a little white
to provide my final highlight, and I’m using this to emphasise
a few expressive details, such as the brow and facial details
as well as the knuckles on the hands. The next most important area in need
of highlights is the green accessories. For that, I’m beginning with an equal mix of the original
Castellan Green and some Loren Forest, although you could save time by jumping straight in
with some pure Loren Forest here if you wish. I’m using this to highlight the entire
top surface of the backpack. I’m then focusing more on the edges, and applying a couple of thin layers
to the flat areas on the back, but drawing the paint towards the edge
where I want the brightest highlight to be. This can be done in a couple of layers
to build up a subtle gradation. I’m also going to get my brush to each of
the small details on the front of the miniature. We can then use some pure
Loren Forest for the next highlight. I might still apply a thin layer of this
to the top surface of the backpack, but really want to focus mostly
on the edges and corners. Sometimes I might lay down a fairly solid highlight
– like you can see on this edge here, then apply a more thinned layer to the surrounding
area to help blend the layers together. For the smallest, brightest highlights,
I’m mixing in a little Nurgling Green. The miniature now looks pretty good, and the remaining highlights
could be considered optional if you’re in a hurry to get
your saboteur to the table. However, I’ve chosen to give just a few
minimal highlights to the short-sleeved shirt with the original Screaming Skull. And I’m happy with the white shirt as it is. For the trousers, I’m going to
reapply some Stormvermin Fur, placing particular emphasis on the raised ridges
on the back of the legs and the knee area. I’m then going to lighten this further
with the addition of a little Karak Stone. For the boots, a few small highlights
with some Eshin Grey would be fine. Finally, for the metallic areas, I’m mixing
some Karak Stone with some bright silver For that, I’m using the new Stormhost Silver, but Runefang Steel or something
similar would also be fine. Mixing in the Karak Stone, dulls the metallic effect down and brings a subtle warmth to the highlight. Once we’re happy with the highlights,
we’re ready to add some finishing touches. We’re now going to add a few
optional details to the miniature, starting with the lenses of the goggles. These appear just slightly lighter
than the surrounding area, and I’ve chosen to give them a small hit
with a mixture of Castellan Green and Leadbelcher. For the Rebel symbol on the left shoulder, I’m going to first smooth the area out
with some Screaming Skull. I’m then using some Stormvermin Fur
to firstly draw around the circumference of the patch. I’m then painting two small indents
near the top of the circle, leaving the remaining Screaming Skull
to approximate the shape of the Rebel symbol. Finally, I’m going to use some Evil Sunz Scarlet
to paint a couple of the red lights we can on some of the equipment
being worn by the saboteurs I’m applying just two: one on the pack at the front of the miniature,
and one on the wristband. We can then paint the base
or rebase the miniature entirely. And as usual, we protect the figures
with a coat of matte varnish. As one final touch, I’ve also chosen to give
the boots a thinned coat of gloss varnish, although a more muddied, weathered look
would also work well. And this completes the Rebel Saboteurs. Thank you for watching. If you enjoy my work, then do
please subscribe to the channel, and feel free to connect with me
on Facebook, Twitter or Patreon where you can help support my work
for as little as one dollar. As usual, my huge thanks go the amazing patrons
who are already supporting the work that I do. The channel will soon be undergoing
some exciting improvements, all thanks to their ongoing generosity. Join me again soon as we continue painting
miniatures from Star Wars: Imperial Assault. Happy Painting!

27 thoughts on “Star Wars Imperial Assault Painting Guide Ep.21: Rebel Saboteurs

  1. what is your typical process? are you doing each of these models as shown in the videos or doing batches similiar to blacktide and editing each set separately?

  2. Another awesome guide dude. Some times a lack of patience is what kills my paint jobs, but I can't curb this habit.

    Nice to see that you have ๐Ÿ˜‰

  3. Hey mate, great job again. Your tutorials really helping me be a better painter. I asked you if you can paint some Cyclades miniatures, but you didn't know the game. Maybe some Blood Rage ( https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/170216/blood-rage ) miniatures Tutorial for the future? ๐Ÿ™‚

    Thanks again for your videos. Amazing job!

  4. Thank you for doing these videos. Thanks to your encouragement, I have painted about half my base set. Your step by step direction is immensely helpful. You are the biggest reason why I even considered painting my IA set, and I am grateful to you for that. I have fallen in love with the hobby. Thank you.

  5. Wonderful video, as always. I don't know if I've said before, but I really love the compositions you make for these videos. Any chance those might be available somewhere?

    Also, I was curious what alternative paint colors you might suggest for the skin tone and highlights if I wanted them to be almost exclusively light blue in tone? There's quite a bit of variation in color for the Duros, depending on your reference material, and I was thinking of using their appearance from ANH as a basis.

  6. Well done mate! best painting tutorials on the internet…of any game system.

    I do have one question: Do you have a schedule of sorts of what minis you are doing next? Not time based of when it will be released….but more like what order you are going to do the mini's in?

  7. These videos are amazing. Just out of curiosity do you use any kind of magnification while painting? I'm just amazed at your ability to really pick out and properly paint some very fine details.

  8. Another awesome mini paint job. I really enjoyed the lightning/shading effects you did on this one. The ultra smooth gradation you did on their bald heads is simply great. But while I'm at it, I'd like to ask you somethin. Apparently, Canada has run out of Quickshade Strong Tone. I went to 4 of the biggest mini shops in my city and they all ran out of QsST AND it's been backordered for months now. After a quick search on some online shops on the net, I was able to find some but they're selling it for as much as twice the retail price !! So here's my question : how drastically different are the tones (Light vs Strong vs Dark)? Can I hope to achieve similar results by using the Light QS instead of the Strong QS? I guess the best option would actually be to use different colored, smaller Quickshades from Citadel or AP but I'm running on a small budget. Any suggestions?

  9. Top quality tutorials, you make it look so easy. question, what's your take on the P3 paints? have you ever used them?

  10. Oh great Teacher I have a question for you!
    what do you use to mount your minis so you don't have to handle them?

  11. These are spectacular miniatures, I am looking forward to your next video! Also how much have you played the game because it is a great game.

  12. Sorastro your videos are top notch man. I used to paint minis way back in my LOTR/Warhammer days. I did it for years and even entered some local GW painting competition but I ultimately ended up selling off all my minis, terrain and game accessories. It's been nearly 8 years since I've painted a miniature and after gaining interest in Imperial Assault and stumbling upon your videos, you have inspired me to get back into the hobby. I'm headed out today to pick up my core set and I have all my paint, brushes and tools ready to go. I am subscribed and will watch everything you post! Keep up the great work man, you're fantastic.

  13. Great job.
    A lot of work went into these videos. Really appreciate it.
    I kind of wished FFG would release minis in bulk, without the need to buy the whole game. Especially since so many play the RPG now.

  14. Always amazing. is there a paint brand you could recommend for a beginner on a budget? Citadel is the best, but also the most expensive for a beginner. Regards.

  15. Is it wrong that the first thing I think of when I started watching was.. The Mad Bomber what Bombs at Midnight!

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