Star Wars Imperial Assault Painting Guide Ep.22: Lando Calrissian


Hello, and welcome to Episode 22
of Sorastro’s Star Wars painting series. In this episode, we’re going to paint Lando Calrissian from Fantasy Flight Games’ Star Wars: Imperial Assault. Lando has a beautifully dynamic pose, and his billowing purple cloak
with golden lining, and rich skin tone, make him an interesting
and rewarding figure to paint. Let’s take a look at the painting stages. We’ll begin by priming the figure with a black primer. We’re then going to paint the cloak and top, and I will be sharing two different
approaches to painting the purple before going on to render the beautiful golden lining. We’ll then paint the remaining clothes, hair and gun using base colours, a black wash,
and some selective highlighting. We can then paint the skin, and we’ll be aiming
for a nice rich tone with a good level of contrast. We’ll then finish Lando off
by adding some facial details and some gloss varnish
for select areas of the outfit. Let’s begin. We can begin by giving the inner lining
of the cloak a base coat of Castellan Green. Some of these places are
a little tricky to get the brush to, and hitting the legs is somewhat inevitable,
which is why we’re painting it first. Two layers of this should give us a nice, flat finish. We’re going to return to this lining later on, but first lets paint the outer, purple colour. I’m going to present two approaches
to painting the purple areas: a quick approach if you want to save time, and a slow approach if you want to invest
an additional couple of hours. For the quick approach – which I’m
going to speed paint on this spare elf – we can begin with a base colour of Calgar Blue. This can then be followed
with a shade using Druchii Violet, mixed with just a little Drakenhof Nightshade. We want to soak up the shade from the flat areas, and here you can see that I’m
holding the miniature upside down to help encourage the wash into the recesses. Once that’s dry, we can apply a couple of
layers of highlight using the Calgar Blue. I’m applying these highlights pretty roughly just to show that we don’t have to be too precious
in order to create a table-top ready miniature. The cloak could then be finished off
with a few smaller highlights using Hoeth Blue. Here, you can see me lay a band of highlight
at the bottom of the cloak, then quickly clean the brush, leaving it damp. I’m then using this to feather the edge of the highlight
to help create quick and easy transitions. Using spare miniatures like this to practice on is of course a great way to experiment with
different techniques and practice our brush work. Although the finished result is a little rough,
it only took around 30 minutes to paint, and will give your Lando a cloak
that will look just fine on the tabletop. For a smoother, more refined look, I’m going to be using a wider range of tones
and quite a few more thin layers, and I won’t be relying on a shade
to darken the recesses. Instead, I’m starting with a darker
base tone of Macragge Blue. When applying the base tone, we want to carefully avoid
the collars, cuffs, and the trim around the neck, as these want to remain black. For my first highlight, I’m going to mix in
an equal quantity of Altdorf Guard Blue and use this to gently brighten
most of the cloak and the top, except for the darkest folds and recesses. You can see that I try to keep the brush strokes
moving mostly in line with the contours of the cloak. Because the colour we’re using here is only
slightly brighter than that of the base tone, we should only see a slight boost
in the level of brightness. Our next highlight is going to be
with some pure Altdorf Guard Blue. We’re still covering a good portion of the fabric with this but should be begin to get a sense of
where we want to the brightest areas to be. Now we’re going to mix in some
of our next lightest tone – Calgar Blue. Now we’re focusing more heavily
on the topmost and raised areas of the cloak. Once again, you can see me using a damp brush
to feather some of these transitions out. Now we’re ready for some pure Calgar Blue. I might sometimes thin the paint to a very thin glaze and brush it over the layer boundaries
to help smooth the transitions out. If the glaze is thin enough, then you
shouldn’t see much of a difference, but a couple of thin layers
should help create a more blended look. Now we’re going to mix in some
of our brightest tone – Hoeth Blue. We can now really begin to define the thin,
most-raised peaks in the cloth. Finally, we’re going to use some pure Hoeth Blue. We’re naturally going to be confining our highlights
to the sharpest raised areas of the fabric, along with the tops of the chest, arms and shoulders. As an optional finishing touch, I’m going
to add a subtle richness and vibrancy by creating a thin glaze using a mixture of
Hoeth Blue and Moot Green and plenty of water. I’m then going to use this to subtlety
tint the main areas of highlight. If our glaze is thin enough, then we should
barely see any difference after the first layer. Here, I’m adding my second layer, and we can just about see those subtle green tones
shining through in the highlights. You can see that I’m frequently wiping the brush
to help soak up the excess and prevent it from pooling. In contrast to this, I’m now going to mix a darker,
warmer tone to boost the depth in the shadows. For that, I’m using some Druchii Violet,
mixed with a small amount of Drakenhof Nightshade, and I’m thinning this down
with a roughly equal quantity of medium. We can then brush this carefully into
the deepest recesses, to gently push the contrast. Because the mix is quite thin, it can also
help blend the layers in the darker tones and may also be used to tone down any
areas we may have over-highlighted. We can apply two or three layers of this to our liking. And this completes the more time-consuming
approach to painting the cloak. Whichever method you choose, we now need
to turn out attention to the gold-patterned lining. We’re going to begin by using some
Retributor Armour to stipple on a textured pattern. We’re then going to use a lighter
gold colour – Auric Armour Gold – to add some brighter spots to the pattern
on the raised areas that catch the most light. Next, I’m going to create a 3:1 mix of
Casandora Yellow and Fuegan Orange. And I’m going to thin this
with a couple of drops of medium. I’m now going to apply this to the entire area, which with both provide an orange tint,
but will also dull the reflectivity of the gold. Next, I’m going to reapply some
of the Auric Armour highlights. We can see how nicely these reflective,
bright-gold highlights now stand out against the slightly
more orange, muted background. I’m going to repeat this shade and highlight process
one more time, to further exaggerate the effect. I’m now going to deepen the shadows with a 3:1 mix
of Agrax Earthshade and Druchii Violet. Once again, I’m thinning this with a little medium
to give me more control over the intensity of the shade, although water would also be fine. We should apply this just to the grooves in the fabric. And here, I’m adding a few final highlights
with the Auric Armour Gold to ensure we’ve really maxed out those highlights. And this completes Lando’s cloak, which means we’re ready to move
onto the other areas of the miniature. We can now apply our base colours
for the remaining clothes, the hair, and the gun. For the collar and cuffs, I’m simply going
to tidy them up with some pure black. I’m now going to use a dark grey tone
to paint the boots and the belt with a mix of black and Mechanicus Standard Grey. For the trousers, which want to be a very dark navy, I’m using an equal mix of Kantor Blue and black. For the hair, I’m darkening some
Mournfang Brown with some black. I’m then going to lighten this with some
Tallarn Sand and provide a few highlights – mostly to the top of the head. We’re going to darken all of these areas
with a back wash in a moment, so we shouldn’t worry if the hair appears
a little over-bright at this stage. For the dark portion of the gun,
I’m mixing some black with some Leadbelcher. And for the tip of the gun, I’m using Stormhost Silver, although any bright silver would be fine. We can now shade all of the areas
we’ve just painted with some Nuln Oil. Once dry, you may like to darken the hair further
with an additional layer of the shade. We can now highlight these areas, and I’m starting with some Eshin Grey for the boots. We can also use this for the cuffs and the collar. I’m then moving onto the belt. I’d like to make more of a feature of the belt
and have chosen to push the highlights quite far with the addition of some white in a couple of stages. For the trousers, I’m using the original Kantor Blue
and black mix for my first layer of highlight. I’m then going to lighten this slightly
with the addition of a little Administratum Grey, and I’m going to focus on the smaller,
most prominent areas of highlight. Finally, for the pistol I’m mixing some
Stormhost Silver with a little Karak Stone. With the clothes and accessories complete,
we’re ready to paint the skin. I’m going to begin painting the skin
by providing a base tone using a mix of two parts Mournfang Brown
and one part Macragge Blue. I’m then going to create a lighter tone
using a 2:1 mix of Tau Light Ochre and Gorthor Brown. I will then begin using this to lighten
the base colour in gradual increments. As usual, our first layer will cover most of the skin, and each successive layer will cover
a smaller and smaller area of highlight. I’ve chosen to imagine a slightly off-centre light source, which means I’m going to gently build up the intensity
on the front-left side of Lando’s face. Here, you can see I’ve built up to the pure
Tau Light Ochre and Gorthor Brown mix. To push the contrast further,
I’m now going to mix in a little white. I’m applying these more extreme highlights mostly
to the left cheekbone and upper forehead region, as well as the tip of the nose and the chin. We can also hit the knuckles and fingertips with this. I’m adding one final portion of white
for my brightest highlight and focusing just on the left cheekbone
and left side of the forehead. With the skin complete,
we’re now ready for some finishing touches. I’m now going to fill in some of the facial details, starting with a Mournfang Brown
and black mix for the moustache. Next, I’m going to articulate the teeth with an off-white,
using an Ushabti Bone and white mix. For the lower lip, I’m mixing some
Gorthor Brown with a little Evil Sunz Scarlet. I’m going to lighten this by mixing in a little white, which I’m then going to use
to provide a small, final highlight. Lando’s smile is an important
expression of his character and I feel deserves this little extra attention. The eyes aren’t really articulated in the sculpt and could be left completely shadowed by the brow. However, I would like to provide at least
the suggestion of a glint or the whites of the eye by providing a small dab of Celestra Grey. If this turns out a little too large or out of place, we can always push it back using the base skin tone. This is a somewhat impressionistic
approach to painting the eyes but is enough to provide some sense of presence. As always, once the painting is complete,
I’m using Testors Dullcote to protect the miniature. And I’m going to apply some gloss varnish to
the boots, belt, as well as the collar and cuffs. And as usual for the heroes, I’ve chosen
to replace the base with a scenic alternative. And this completes Lando Calrissian. Thank you so much for watching. The response to this series so far
has been truly humbling, and each like, comment and subscription
continues to help motivate me to create more. Although I’ve jumped ahead in the release order
to feature Lando in this episode, we will soon be returning to carry on working through
the earlier miniatures released for the game. As always, my very special thanks go out
to patrons who are funding this work. Thanks to their loyal support, the channel
will soon be seeing some big improvements, including a significant increase in output. If you would like to help the channel continue to grow, please check out the Patreon link above
or in the channel description. Join me again soon as we continue panting
miniatures from Star Wars: Imperial Assault. Happy Painting!

23 thoughts on “Star Wars Imperial Assault Painting Guide Ep.22: Lando Calrissian

  1. I have been painting for a wile now, and I still don't know what makes a wash a wash and what makes a glaze a glaze, I'm sure I do it all the time with out realizing it because of the way that I paint but I was wondering if you had a good way to explain it.

  2. Hi!

    Hi do you manage to keep the tip of the brush so stiff?
    I use Army Painter brushes and sometimes GW brushes (for inks), but except for the small ones the larger ones tend to lose the shape.

    also, bonus question: What do you think of the "Quickshade" system? I've used it to paint quickly large units needed in 24hrs for demo games
    have you ever used it?

  3. Great job. I've been wondering if you had a particular reason to use a black primer for Lando. My own first instinct would be to use white due to the bright cloak. I prime mostly in white as I find it makes the detail easier for me to see.

  4. Very inspiring videos. Could you say a little more about why you added green to the cape highlight glaze? It looks great but is not at all something I would have guessed!

  5. I have just finished painting Lando (I'm a bit behind on these videos) and I had to comment. What an extraordinary tutorial video! Everything is up to your usual high standard, but the cloak – both the back and the lining – is just amazing. I'd love to know the thought processes behind coming up with the techniques you used on the lining, the colour choices, the little touches like the thin greenish glaze on the lightest highlights. Amazing work.

  6. Man your such a great artist! I love your videos and I learnd a lot of painting techniques and tricks. Thank you a lot and keep on doing such great work!

  7. I missed this video earlier, so am delighted you posted a link to it.
    I have used blue to shade green before, but never the other way round to highlight blue with a green mix.
    that is just so amazing 😀
    You hardly notice it, looking at the finished figure, but seeing how it draws your eye to all the cloak so subtly is just perfect.
    Also, the inner cloak has now made me finally WANT to paint this figure, as I was afraid to try the pattern before, but now, well, let's say i'm going for it!!!!!
    The skin tone is excellent, as I always struggle with dark skin tones, and used to start with a dark green base coat, and then apply thin layers from then on, as I did in the old days of using oil/enamel paints.
    I hate painting anything remotely cloak like blue, as I could never get the highlights/shades to go the way I wanted them.
    Now I can have a go at them again, on some spare figures first, and see how it goes.
    Thank you so much for all your vidoes, as they are simply making me work harder and become much better at my hobby as I go along.
    I'd love to see some videos of how you paint the background terrain and scenic bases in your videos, too, as they are just oustanding, and compliment your figures immensely.
    All the very best, always
    Paul 🙂

  8. Really nice video sorastro, may i ask what you do to move the Citadel paints into the tray? Since they are not tubed, im having problems mixing too much.

    Furthermore do you have any videos where you paint, asians or latinos, or do you have any tips on those? I already got pretty good control of northern europeans and americans with Bugmans Glow, Reikland Fleshshade, Cadian Fleshtone and Kislev Flesh and with this i have an idea for a more african skintone. So what im looking for are those other types.

  9. Hello again Mr S, I was re-painting a DC Heroclix Ragman figure today, after watching this tutorial yet again, to see how you highlighted Lando's cloak, when inspiration struck, and I rolled with it. I was using Vallejo washes on the Ragman cloak, to shade the thing, as it has lots of creases and holes in it, when suddenly I found myself using the Flesh Wash from the set to highlight the ragged edges of the cloak. It seemed wrong beyond all limits at first, using a wash as a highlight medium, but after a few passes, it worked out wonderful 😀 I've since tried using the washes (Dark browns and the black) to shade eye sockets instead of very thinned paint, and it works even better. I just wanted to drop you a line and say a huge thank you for helping me find other techniques that have worked and improved my hobby 😀 This may be an old tutorial, but watching it once more has proved its worth beyond imagination. Try using washes to highlight on a spare figure, and see if it works for you, too. I am so shocked how easy it is to highlight with successive layers of wash, undiluted, and just how easy it blends into the rest of the paint surrounding it. I can't wait to try this new idea again, and see how many other uses I can find for using washes. I already use them for camo patterns on armoured vehicles, which has proved to leave them with a more washed out (No pun intended) or faded effect, and it also works on the few Star Wars Imperial Assault Stormtroopers I painted in camo pattern schemes. The Vallejo Pale Grey Wash has a wonderful effect on most surfaces, and does a fantastic job of weathering down even bright, primary colours with some experimental passes with straight from the bottle or diluted attempts. Well, thanks again for inspiring me even further, and keep bringing out these gorgeous tutorials, as even when I'm not painting, I'm still watching 🙂

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