Star Wars Imperial Assault Painting Guide Ep.27: Biv Bodhrik


Hello, and welcome to Episode 27
of Sorastro’s Star Wars painting series. In this episode, we’re going to paint Biv Bodhrik
from Fantasy Flight Games’ Star Wars: Imperial Assault. Alongside a palette of weathered-
looking beiges and browns, Biv also features quite a vibrant gun and an eye-catching shoulder pad
that really help the miniature stand out. Let’s take a look at the painting stages. We’ll prepare and prime the miniature in the usual way. Well then provide neat, bold base colours – and I’ll be using Citadel’s Spiritstone Red for the gun. We can then shade most of the miniature
down with a range of washes which will also help produce a more
weathered look for the clothing. We’ll then highlight the miniature, giving extra
time and attention to the orange shoulder pad. Our finishing touches will include painting the eyes along with the Rebel symbols
on the shoulder pad and the gun. Let’s begin. It was only after priming, that I noticed the left
shoulder pad is actually a part of the waist jacket, so I’ve chosen to fill the gap between
the shoulder and body with some green stuff. Once that’s done, and the miniature is primed, we’re ready to begin painting. I’m going to begin by painting
some of the harder-to-reach places. So, I’m starting with the vest,
and I’m going to use Vallejo’s Ivory. This is a colour you can also re-create
by mixing Screaming Skull with some White. For the waistcoat, I’m using a roughly equal mix
of Screaming Skull and Zamesi Desert. I’m now using a equal mix
of Mournfang Brown and XV-88 for the belt, pouches, gun strap and glove. I’m now going to mix a little Macragge Blue
with some Mournfang Brown to paint the skin. For the armoured right arm,
I’m using some Ceramite White mixed with just a hint of Screaming Skull. Next, I’m using some Dryad Bark
for the hair and the beard. I’m also using this for the trousers as well as the boots. For the panels on the trousers, I’m using Zamesi Desert. It’s a small detail, but you could use a slightly
different tone – such as Karak Stone – for the patch on the right leg. For the neck scarf, I’m using Death World Forest. I’m now going to paint the steel-coloured
parts of the gun with some Leadbelcher, mixed with a little black and some
Stegadon Scale Green. The addition of the green helps
produce a more steely tone. It is however entirely optional. Next, I’m going to paint the red panelling, firstly with an equal mix of
Stormhost Silver and Skullcrusher Brass. This gives a nice pale gold-coloured base,
over which I’ll be applying some Spiritstone Red to produce a shiny, metallic look in a moment. This is quite a unique effect, and you may
prefer a more traditional approach; If you’re not using Spiritstone Red, a simple base of Mephiston Red, mixed with
a little Caliban Green, would be fine here instead. Once that’s dry, I’m going to apply a single layer
of undiluted Spiritstone Red to all of the red panelling. The translucency of the paint will allow some
of the pale gold colour beneath to shine through, giving the impression of a metallic finish. We’ll be darkening some of this
with a shade in a little while. I’m now going to use some Stormhost
Silver to paint the belt buckle. And I’m using some German Grey
to paint the trim on the shoulder pad. I’m also going to paint the gaps between
the armour on the right arm with this. And finally, I’m going to give
the shoulder pad a base of Skrag Brown. With that done, we’re ready for some shading. I’m going to begin, with an equal mix
of Nuln Oil and Aggrax Earthshade, and I’m going use this to shade
the belt, pouches, trousers and boots. I’m also using this for the glove and the gun strap. And we can also use this for the hair. I’m now going to thin this mix down
with a roughly equal amount of medium. And I’m applying this more delicate mix
to the paler sections of the outfit – the white armour, the top and the waistcoat. Next, I’m going to use some neat Nuln Oil
for the steel-coloured parts of the gun, and for the trim on the shoulder pad. I’m now going to mix equal parts
of Carroburg Crimson with Nuln Oil, and use this to selectively shade
the red panelling on the gun. I’m going to mimic the lighting in the character art by shading the sides of the gun but
leaving the upturned surface untouched. So, I’m applying three to four layers of this
just to the sides to cast them in shadow. This will also leave the gun
with a somewhat oily, weathered look. Finally, I’m going to shade the scarf
with some Athonian Camoshade. Once the shades are dry,
we’re ready to add the highlights. I’m starting by highlighting the skin, and I’m using the same recipe used
for Lando Calrissian in Episode 22. That means, I’ll be lightening the base skin tone
– Mournfang Brown with Maccrage Blue – with gradual additions of a 2:1 mix
of Tau Light Ochre and Gorthor Brown. I’m now using the pure highlight mix. And I’m going to add some white, in a couple
of stages, to produce the brightest highlights. I’m now going to highlight the scarf, and I’m going to take the base tone
– Death World Forest – and begin lightening it with Ogryn Camo
mixed with a little Yriel Yellow. Here, I’m adding the yellow to the Ogryn Camo, and now I’m adding this to the Death World Forest. We can add additional quantities of
the Ogryn Camo mix, in a couple of stages. Next, I’m going to highlight the waistcoat with
the original Screaming Skull and Zamesi Desert mix, except with a heavier weighting of Screaming Skull – so a ratio of around 2:1. I’m then adding some additional Screaming Skull
to gently boost the highlights. Next, I’m going highlight vest –
once again with the original Ivory. I’m now using the original white
and Screaming Skull mix to add just a few small
highlights to the right arm. Notice, that I’m leaving most of the nice,
grubby stains left by the shade. I’m then highlighting the belt,
gloves, pouches and gun strap with the Mournfang Brown and XV-88 base tone. I’m adding additional XV-88 to lighten this further. And I’m providing some small,
final highlights with some pure XV-88. For the front of the legs, I’m going to darken some
Zamesi Desert with some Steel Legion Drab. I’m then focusing mostly on
brightening the area above the knee. I’m going to lighten this slightly
by mixing in a little Screaming Skull, and I’m going to focus mostly on the knee area. For the back of the trousers and the boots,
I’m starting off with a reapplication of Dryad Bark. And I’m lightening this with the addition
of some Screaming Skull. I’m now going to highlight
the trim of the shoulder pad by gently lightening some German Grey
with some Screaming Skull. Finally, I’m going to highlight the gun. For the steel parts of the weapon, I’m mixing
some Stormhost Silver with some Karak Stone. I’m then using this to provide
a blanket global highlight to the top surface of the weapon
in a couple of thin layers. I’m then going to use some Nuln Oil to tone this
down and introduce a few subtle gradients. In particular, I’d like to create a dark,
smokey deposit near the end of the gun by providing two or three applications of the shade. Finally, I’m going to use some pure silver to provide
some edge highlights for all areas of the gun. These may represent metallic glints,
scratches and battle damage, so can afford to be a little jagged and uneven. And this completes the gun. Finally, we’re going to paint the shoulder pad, and we’re going to create a smooth transition
from Skrag Brown to Yriel Yellow. So, I’m going to begin by lightening
the Skrag Brown with some of the yellow. I’m then using this to gently brighten
the shoulder pad, using a couple of thin layers, but I’m starting just above the boundary of the grey trim. You may notice I’m mostly drawing the paint
upwards to the topmost, central area, which is where we want the brightest
highlight to eventually be. I’m applying two thin layers each time
before lightening the tone. I’m now mixing in a little more yellow
and repeating the process. Each layer wants to be slightly smaller than the last in order to create the gradient we’re looking for. It’s not unusual to spend a disproportionate amount
of time, working on a specific area of a miniature. I may only spend a few minutes
roughly highlighting the boots, but will happily invest half an hour on a key
focal point such as this shoulder pad. When viewed, it’s the key expressive features like this
that will draw the eyes of the beholder. To help smooth any visible boundaries, we can quickly grab a damp brush
and gently feather the edges. Here, I’ve built up to a highlight of pure Yriel Yellow. I’m now going to boost this even further
by mixing in a little white. I’m deliberately making things a little over-bright here because I’m going to smooth things over
with a glaze in a moment. I’m now going to create a glaze using four parts
Lamenters Yellow with one part Bloodletter. I’m then thinning this down
with an equal quantity of medium. We then the spread this evenly
across the surface of the shoulder pad, making sure that we don’t allow any pooling. This helps to deepen the tone slightly and to integrate the layers of highlight. I’ve chosen to apply two layers of this. Finally, I’m going use some Agrax Earthshade
to gently deepen the darker edges of the shoulder pad. We can build this up in two or three layers, giving the contrast one last subtle boost. Once we’re happy with the shoulder pad,
we’re ready for some finishing touches. I’m going to begin by painting the buckle
on the gun strap with some Leadbelcher. And I’m going to shade the surrounding area
with a little Agrax Earthshade. I’m also going to give a simple highlight
to the patch that I missed earlier. And now we’re going to paint
the Rebel symbol on the shoulder pad, and I’m once again using Vallejo’s Ivory. I’m going to begin by drawing a thin vertical line. This will be the central axis of the symbol. I’m keeping the paint nice and thin,
so that we don’t end up with a raised texture. Next, I’m going to sketch in two
small branches at the top of the line. I’m then going to draw two large, curved arms. They key here, is to sketch the symbol
using thin lines at first. This gives us a margin of error to work
within before we flesh the symbol out. In case you’re wondering, I’m using a Size 2
Rosemary and Co. brush for this. With the main shape sketched out,
we can now begin strengthening the tone and thickening the arms of the symbol. You can see I’m gradually nudging the borders of
the symbol until I get the desired size and shape. We can take a similar approach
with the symbol on the gun. First, we sketch the basic shape
as thinly as we can. We can then go over it, strengthening
and thickening the line as necessary. I’m also painting the whites of the eyes with this, leaving a small dark patch to suggest the iris and pupil. To finish the Rebel symbol off, I’m thinning
some Seraphim Sepia with some medium. I’m then using this to gently
glaze the sides of the symbol as it wraps round to the darker
portions of the shoulder pad. This can be applied in a couple of layers. Once done, I’m providing a matte spray for protection. And as usual, I’m going to rebase
the miniature as detailed in episode 10. And this completes Biv Bodhrik. Thank you for watching. I hope you have enjoyed the video. With so many exciting miniatures still to be released,
and the upcoming cooperative app, there’s never been a better time
to enjoy some Imperial Assault. My very special thanks go out to the loyal patrons whose generosity is making it possible
for me to produce so much more content. Join me again soon as we continue painting
miniatures from Star Wars: Imperial Assault. Happy painting!

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