Star Wars Imperial Assault Painting Guide Ep.38: Captain Terro

Hello and welcome to episode 38
of Sorastro’s Star Wars painting series. In this episode we’re
going to paint Captain Terro from Fantasy Flight Games’
Star Wars: Imperial Assault. The dewback is an impressive miniature
and thankfully quite easy to paint. The expansion comes with a regular
sandtrooper equipped with a shock lance, as well as Captain Terro,
bearing a flamethrower. In this video I’ll be showing how I’ve
chosen to paint a traditional green dewback, but you could easily transpose
the basic techniques to create some more imaginative
colour schemes if you wish. Let’s take a look a the painting stages. I’ve chosen to prime the miniature in black,
followed with a zenithal preshade. You could prime in plain white, although I will be making use of the
highlights on the stormtrooper later on. I’m then going to paint the skin of the Dewback which will mean wet blending the base tones,
followed with a simple shade. Next we’ll paint the accessories and claws, and I’ll be aiming for a nicely worn
finish for the areas of leather. We’ll then paint the stormtrooper, and I’ll be varying my approach
from previous videos to create a slightly more refined finish. Our finishing touches will include painting the eyes and adding some weathering
along with a scenic base. Let’s jump straight in with step 2. For large textured monsters like this,
wet blending would be my technique of choice for quickly laying down a solid base colour
with some organic gradations. Here are the colours I’ve chosen
for my green dewback. For the mid tones, I’m using Castellan Green
and Death World Forest. For the lighter tones, I’m using
Nurgling Green, and maybe a little white. For the darkest areas, I’m going
to mix in some Incubi Darkness. You don’t have to use these
exact colours of course. When picking colours for a gradient like this,
there are a couple of things to bear in mind. Obviously we want to ensure
we have a strong contrast between the levels of the
lightest and darkest tones, but it’s also a nice idea to
vary the hue along the gradient. Here, for example, you can see
my mid-tones are quite brownish, but my lighter tone
is slightly more yellowish, and my darker tone
leans much more towards blue. As usual, when wet blending, I like to use
something with a little retarder to help extend the drying time. I like Vallejo’s Glaze medium specifically
because the consistency isn’t too thick. I’m beginning with the Nurgling Green, which I’m applying to the underside
of the belly and the feet. I’m using a Windsor and Newton
Size 2 brush for this, and I’m just going to paint the left side first. When deciding how to place my colours,
I was inspired by the dewbacks in the movies, but also by looking at pictures
of lizards and dinosaurs, where we sometimes see the lighter tones
on the underside of the creature, fading to the darker tones on top. I’m following that by placing
my Death World Forest above. And after giving the brush a quick wipe,
I’m now blending the two together. It makes sense that we should match
the size of the movements of the brush with the size that we want to gradient to be. Next I’m applying my Castellan Green. And I’m now blending in a little Incubi
Darkness on the very top of the back. We can now paint other side of
the body in the same way. And I’m now painting the face. Here, I’m mixing in a little white
to subtly boost the levels, helping to reinforce the face as a focal point. And I’m now continuing
with the same colours as before. I’ve now switched to a smaller, size 1 brush, and I’m using some
Castellan Green for the nostrils. I’m also darkening the eye area
with a little Incubi Darkness. And I’m now doing a little strengthening of the tone
and general tidying up of the face area. I’m pushing the contrast
in the skin tones at this stage to compensate for the darkening effect
of the shade, which we’ll be adding shortly. Once dry, it’s worth checking for
any gaps or areas of weak coverage. I’m now going to pick out some individual
random scales using Ogryn Camo which I’m focusing mostly
around the mouth and eyes. This kind of patterning is often
found on lizards like the iguana; although this isn’t an essential step, it’s another
nice way of drawing attention to the face area. We can also use the Nurgling Green for this. I’m also using some of the other body tones to do the same for random scales
elsewhere on the model. To add some further variety, I’ve even chosen to
place a few pale grey scales using Slaanesh Grey. We can now go ahead and shade the entire skin,
and I’m using Athonian Camoshade, but will also be blending in a little Coelia
Greenshade for the darker sections. I’m now applying some Coelia Greenshade
along the top of the back, tail and head. With the skin complete, we can now
turn our attention to the accessories. I’m now going to paint all of
the leather satchels and harnesses using a roughly equal mix of
Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide and black. A long, thin-bellied brush,
such as this Rosemary & Co. Size 2, can help get to some
of the hard-to-reach spots. For the fur, I’m going to blend in
some pure Steel Legion Drab, which I’m applying to the top half. For the bundle on the back, I’m painting
the ropes with the same dark brown colour. And I’m using Stormvermin Fur
for the bundle itself. Next I’m using some
Leadbelcher for the driving bit. Finally, for the claws I’m using a roughly 2:1 mix of
Mechanicus Standard Grey and Steel Legion Drab. I’m now going to create a shade using
a 2:1 mix of Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil. I’m using this mostly to shade
the fabric, satchels and the fur. I’m also applying this to the claws, mostly to help define the joins
between the claws and the feet. We’re now ready to apply some highlights by mixing increasing quantities of XV-88
into the original dark brown mix. For the reigns, I’m just providing
some careful edge highlights for now. For the satchels, I’m going spend
a bit of time creating a worn finish by using a mixture of crosshatching
and stippling to create some texture. My plan is to alternate textured layers
of scratches with layers of shade to create a rich, multilayered effect. Before adding my first layer of shade,
I’m going to brighten the mix with additional XV-88
to increase the contrast. I’m now going to apply my shade,
and I’m using Seraphim Sepia to create a more yellow-tinged look, although Agrax Earthshade
would also be fine for this. Once dry, we can add our next layer of texture, and I’m pushing the brightness up a little further. I’m now applying my next layer of shade… ..followed once again with some more texture,
and I’m now using pure XV-88. We can now really begin
to see the effect we’re after. You can of course stop at
any point you like in this process; I’ve chosen to push things further still
by mixing some Karak Stone into my leather tone and performing a couple more
layers of texture and shade. It might seem tedious,
but it’s actually quite fun to do, and I feel that the finished old cracked
leather result is worth the effort. Here, I’m applying my last layer of shade. You could also apply some of this cracked
texture to the reigns and harness if you like. Here we can get away with just one
or two layers of the texture and shade. I’m now going to use this light leather tone
to provide a few delicate highlights for the fur. For the bundle, I’ll be highlighting
with the original Stormvermin Fur to which I’ll be adding increasing
quantities of Karak Stone. I’m now lightening the Stormvermin Fur
in a few stages. I’m building these highlights up
in a several thin layers. And I’m finishing with some pure Karak Stone. Finally, I’m going to highlight the claws
by mixing increasing amounts of Ivory into the original Steel Legion Drab
and Mechanicus Standard Grey base tone. The claws don’t need to be perfect since we’ll be
adding some dusty weathering here later on. I’m finishing the claws off
with a small touch of pure Ivory. With the Dewback more-or-less complete,
we’re now ready to paint the captain. We’re now going to paint Captain Terro, and I’ll be taking a more refined
approach with the white armour than we have in previous videos. I’m painting all of the non-white areas
exactly as detailed in episode 30 so you can refer to that guide to see
how I chose to paint the backpack, weapons, dark grey detailing,
as well as the orange shoulder pad. I’m painting, shading and highlighting
all of these areas in the usual way but taking care not to hit the white suit. We’re now going to paint the white armour. We can see that the zenithal preshade has
already given us some fairly subtle shading and a reasonably bright white, and you may even be tempted
to leave things as they are. There are however a couple of
unnaturally dark sections of armour on the underside of the arms,
which we need to fix first. To do that, I’m going to mix some white
with Mechanicus Standard Grey and carefully brighten up the panels
that are currently too dark. This can also be used to neaten up any areas
that may have been accidentally hit earlier on. With that done, I’m now
going to shade the armour using equal parts Nuln Oil
and Seraphim Sepia, which I’m thinning with
three parts Lahmian Medium. This gives us a more brown-tinged finish, which is typical of the kind of weathering
we find on the sandtroopers. Notice that I’m taking care to remove the excess
from the the upturned flat surfaces such as the top of the helmet and the chest. Once that’s dry, things are
already looking pretty good; Because of the strength of the zenithal
preshade, and the dilution of the wash, you don’t even have to apply any
manual highlights at all if you wish, giving us possibly the ultimate
lazy approach to painting stormtroopers, although it is an approach that
somewhat relies on the use of an airbrush to achieve the necessarily smooth
zenithal preshade to begin with. I’m going to go ahead
and add some highlights anyway, and I’m starting with Vallejo’s Ivory. The key here is to keep
the paint nice and thin, but also to ensure we’re not
overloading the brush. That way we can spread
the pigments more evenly with less chance of unwanted pooling. We can add some oily stains
to the armour later on, so we shouldn’t worry
about the odd mistake. Here on the leg I’m feathering
the edge of this layer with a damp brush. After carefully bringing the tone up
in a couple of layers, I’m now going to brighten things further
by mixing in some white. If we only notice a small difference
with each layer – this is a good thing. I may not necessarily take so much care
with the regular stormtroopers due to the limitations of time, but for a one-off character like the captain here,
we can afford to indulge. I’m once again using a damp brush here
to smooth the transition out. I’m now using some pure white
for my final highlights. Once we’re happy with the armour,
we could now glue the captain to the dewback, and we’re ready for some finishing touches. I’m now going to paint the eyes of the dewback, and I’m using a roughly equal mix of
Troll Slayer Orange and Averland Sunset. Next I’m going to apply some Fuegan Orange
to help darken the edges a little. And I’m now painting the pupils
with a small hit of pure black. We can now finish the eyes off
with a small glint of pure white. Next I’m going to add some dusty weathering
to the legs and feet of the dewback using a mix of Steel Legion Drab
and Zamesi Desert. For Captain Terro, I’m going to add a few stains
to the armour using using Typhus Corrosion. This is a nice way to obscure any parts
of the figure we may be unhappy with. I might also thin this down
and apply some to the feet of the dewback. Next I’m going to provide some texture for the base using the same method we
used for the Bantha in episode 24. That means I’ll be providing
an undercoat of Steel Legion Drab, followed by quite a thick
application of Agrellan Earth to create a cracked-earth effect. Here’s my Steel Legion Drab… ..and now I’m applying the Agrellan Earth. Once that’s completely dry, I’m going to apply an equal
mix of Agrax Earthshade and Casandora Yellow. I might also thin some of this down
and brush it onto the feet. We can now go ahead and paint the rim
of the base, and I’m using black for this. Before applying the matte varnish, I’ve chosen
to brighten a few of the scales around the face, using Ogryn Camo and Nurgling Green, again – just to help draw
attention to this focal area. We’re now ready to protect
the miniature with a matte spray. And I’m going to finish the dewback off
with a little thinned gloss varnish for the eyes. And completes Captain Terro. Of course, this isn’t the only
way to paint the dewback. You could take inspiration from nature and try
something a little more adventurous if you like such as I’ve done here with a colour scheme
inspired by the North-American collared lizard. All you do is find an image that inspires you and have a go at matching the colours. You can then use the same techniques
outlined in this video to create your scheme. Thank you for watching. For full details of the products
used in the video, including brushes, you can refer to the video description, where
you’ll also find links to my social media accounts. My special thanks as always go to the kind patrons
who are supporting my creation of these videos. Join me again soon as we continue painting
miniatures from Star Wars Imperial Assault. Happy Painting!

83 thoughts on “Star Wars Imperial Assault Painting Guide Ep.38: Captain Terro

  1. Stunning. The leather effect is amazing. Sometimes I wonder if FFG would still be producing minis of this quality for IA if it wasn't for you giving people the ability to do this.

  2. Yes 1440P! Outstanding video, thanks for all you do. I feel my skills have improved and I can say your worked has helped a great deal. Your video quality has always been stellar but this reaches new heights.

  3. wonderful as always…love the wet blending…I might even be brave enough to give it a go myself….

  4. Loved the vid, great job! Question regarding zenithal priming: I've been trying it out on my models recently, but I can't really see the benefits of applying the technique. I always figured that you'd have to water your paints a little extra for the zenithal colors underneath to show through, but in your tutorials it seems as if the paint covers the primer completely. Maybe I'm missing something here, or maybe the effects are just that subtle? Also, when applying the base colors on the lizards skin, do you water the paints after applying the glaze medium as well? Thanks again for the great content! 🙂

  5. Maestro! you are amazing. I do not have Lahmian Medium :/, but i have glaze medium vallejo,Do you have any alternatives for those who do not have Lahmian Medium?

  6. Dear Sorastro, I've been away for a little while and have now caught up with your tutorials and what can I say…this episode is simply outstanding! Love the suggested alternate colour scheme for the dew back! Kind Regards Johnny

  7. Aw man…this video might be the one where I cave in and buy Imperial Assault. This and a few other models you've done seem like such a blast to paint. (The game is pretty fun too).

  8. Great tutorial as always.. weathered leather effect is incredible.. Wet blending is impressive as always.. Great technique and brush control.

  9. An excellent couple of lizards,I love the way you do the transitions on the natural skins; and a worn dark leather painting master class. When you do the zenithal highlights do you use primer paints for all the layers? I've found that using only the black primer for the base coat and then highlighting with the normal thinner layer paints creates a smoother transition and avoids the dotted pattern that sometimes can be seen.
    Great job, as usual. 🙂

  10. Probably the best mini to date. Amazingly good. The leather wearing I have never seen before. So good.

  11. I have been watching these videos for over a year, and your painting ability has increased since episode one, and you have added many new techniques over the course of your videos. Zenithal highlighting, and wet blending being the most significant. Now that you are using these techniques more frequently, would you have used them in previous figures such as the Nexu, or the Zenithal for all the figures painted before you started using the airbrush. I was just curious, as I have tried to add your more recent techniques into your old tutorials, and the question came to mind. Again, your painting is amazing, and I watch your videos more than any other video series. Thank you for what you do. The painting, the music, the camera work is all amazing.

  12. Oh, and one more thing………

    Really amazes me between this channel and Imperial Assault what a great combination they are for teaching miniature painting. Start off with black and white stormtroopers then simple metallics with the probe drops, monotone color with the royal guards, bring them together on the heavy stormtroopers/Kayn, then simple figures with the tuskens and officers and before long, wet blending Jabba and fancy colored dewbacks. Even have vehicles and wookiee swards to paint. The full gambit is here, including the Bespin one.

  13. beautiful work man! very impressive that you compose your own music as well. I can definitely hear the New Hope soundtrack influence!

  14. Wonderful video! love the way you've done the leather! Just finished painting Zombicide Wulfsburg and you're work has been a real inspiration. Thanks a lot!

  15. Thank you so much for this painting series. It helps me do the use the technique that you use on other models. My favorite figure you've ever done is the blood rage fire giant that was so cool

  16. I am so grateful for your channel. I learn so much every video. I have reached the quickshade step of my Zombicide Black Plague game and although they don't look as good as yours they are better than anything I have painted so far. I keep reminding myself to be patient and not overload the brush. I have also done some reaper minis for my D&D group. Thanks for the help!

  17. Masterpice!!. Wish to have such stable hand during painting eyes 😀 Don't know why but always start shaking at the worst time.

  18. Great work as always. I have 2 questions. 1) Do you have a brush maintenance video or one that you would suggest? 2) Will you be painting some models from the new Warhammer 8th Edition starter box?

  19. could you please do a Dark Souls Board game painting tutorial… i would love to see what you could do with the miniatures and learning from what you do would be next level,

  20. Unbelievably amazing lizard skin tutorial 🙂
    I have some old Tamiya Raptors that I found in my bitz box, and wanted to paint them up, but needed help with the blending of the skin from the belly upward.
    After seeing the last Dewback in a different skin tone, I now have a much better idea of what to paint them, as I wanted something that would make them seriously different to the norm 😀
    Again, the music is wonderful in the background, and really helps you concentrate on the painting going on.
    Nice use of long tipped brushes too, which I find so much better to reach the little areas that are often difficult to paint due to sculpted detail in the way.
    Also really like the use of a pencil and white-tac to hold the torso/head of the Stormtrooper.
    That's something most people may not notice overtly, but will have subliminal impact along the way.
    Thanks again for a truly inspiring, wonderful tutorial

  21. The video I have been looking forward to since the figure was released! As always another brilliant tutorial and an absolutely amazing looking figure. Looking forward to the next exciting adventures of Sorastro! Cheers Mate

  22. great stuff as always!

    Any chance of seeing an Inquisitor or Obi-Wan guide? I think I can replicate Obi-Wan using bits from other characters, but the Inquisitor seems a bit unique from Darth Vader.

  23. HI Sorastro, I am beginning to repeat myself (I just turned 40, that may be why!): you work is truly inspiring… Wonderful. I really like your recent work with the wet blending technique… background music is really nice too by the way…

  24. I tell you what, that was an incredible surprise when you brought out the second Dewback, wonderful colour choice!

  25. I tell you what, that was an incredible surprise when you brought out the second Dewback, wonderful colour choice!

  26. I tried wet blending my Drawback after watching this tutorial. I'm very happy with the results. Thanks for your time and effort for these videos. You've inspired me to get painting again.

  27. I ran across your tutorials recently and have been binging through them, heh. Your channel has the best painting tutorials Ive seen thus far, though Apathetic Fish is also a favorite of mine. I dunno what it is about your vids, though. They have a Bob Ross-ian quality. I can just keep watching them and its so incredibly relaxing and inspiring.

    I did have a question, though. Do you use any sort of eyeglass or magnifier when putting in fine details like eyes?

    Oh, also one last thing. What are the odds you might paint this:

    Not sure how popular the movie is across the pond, but here in the states its a cult classic.

    Anyway, back to binging. Got my Imperial Assault in the mail!

  28. I love and hate these videos now. I love that you're able to do such amazing work, but I swear I'm going to hate how mine turn out once I start up. I'm glad I've watched these though, because it helps me see how you've started with something so basic (Stormtroopers) and then getting into something like this where you have 2 vastly different colored reptiles and make them each look amazing and unique. My hat is off to you, sir.

  29. The thing that is funny is that these models look huge in the videos, but the actual IA figures are freakin' tiny as hell.

  30. Sorastro,

    Thank you so much for this series. Also my bank account hates you.

    So, I painted my first storm troopers a month ago and I'm about 50 figures in. Most of them I've used your videos directly but I had to fill the gap on Murne and I'm doing the Wing Guards on my own using your techniques.

    Now that I'm deeper in…and now that you're doing this more full time, I wanted to ask if you could do a little something on basic supplies. Specifically, brushes.

    You said in the first video that we could get away with a size 0, 1 and 2.
    8 Episodes later you're telling us to paint an offset pupil on a lizard man.

    While you get us all as beginners some of us are putting the hours in to go a bit further but not getting the peripheral stuff.

    Anyway thanks for the great series and giving me a hobby I never thought I'd enjoy as much as I do.

  31. On other tutorials for wet blending I've heard people suggest to leave a gap between the two colors. Have you tried it that way and if so does it make a difference?

  32. Hi sorastro, I just had a question regarding your brushes:

    How do u keep them so thin at the point? Mine always seem to spread after a couple of uses.

  33. so I've got 3 of these guys to do…. thanks for the video and ideas! You've really helped a beginner get to grips with this hobbie.

  34. When you have posts that you need to keep unpainted to stick parts together, do you cover them in anything. I was thinking of trying a thin layer of rubber cement that can act as a mask and then be rubbed off when done. I am getting ready to do the bantha rider and captain terro, and thought prepping them in this way may be worth it.

  35. You're doing amazing job painting those miniatures. I just wonder if you ever tried wet pallet and what you think about that? I guess it could be good idea with project as big as dwaback or bantha (or other large figures or many figures of same type even). I’m asking because I would like to start with miniatures painting and not sure if I need one.

  36. A myślałeś może żeby na koniec każdego odcinka wstawić kilkusekundowe info co będzie w następnym odcinku? Mogło by być ciekawie.
    A tak na marginesie -kolejne wspaniałe ożywienie figurki. Na prawdę jestem twoim fanem.
    Masz jakiś pomysł na szturmowcow z plecakami odrzutowymi? Bo zastanawiam się, skoro są w trakcie lotu-czy nie zrobić jakiś płomieni przy dyszach.
    Pozdrawiam i czekam na kolejne odsłony.

  37. Thank you for this tutorial, I am going to try this technique soon ! 😀 I have a question, I have the "Citadel lamian medium", this product is the same effect of the "Vallejo's Glaze medium" ? Or both are different ?

  38. I have bought Moot Green to mix other green tones. What would you mix into it to get a tone like Death World Forest?
    Btw, great work.

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