Star Wars Imperial Assault Painting Guide Ep.6: AT-ST


Hello, and welcome to Episode 6
of Sorastro’s Star Wars painting series. In this episode, we’re going to paint the AT-ST from Fantasy Flight’s Imperial Assault. The AT-ST is a spectacular miniature and one of the easier figures to paint but also one of the most fun. We’re going to use some fairly rough
techniques to bring the figure to life that should give us striking results with relative ease. Here are the steps: After assembling the miniature,
we’ll undercoat the figure using a grey primer. We’ll then use a large flat brush
to apply a strong, light grey base tone. We’ll follow that with a bright drybrush
to add some heavy highlights. Next, we’ll apply a black wash to the entire figure, but we’ll be wiping the wash from the larger,
flat areas to preserve the highlights, resulting in a subtly weathered look. Then, we’ll add some rich grime- and rust effects before finishing the miniature off
with a simple but effective scenic base. Let’s begin. We begin by removing unwanted
mould lines in the usual way before assembling the miniature. I generally like to use plastic glue because it actually melts the surface
of the joints, creating a very strong bond. If you experience difficulty fitting the front turret, you may need to file or carefully cut back
the node on the inside of the housing to get it to fit. We won’t to be gluing this turret, however,
as we want it to remain movable. Finally, we spray the miniature
– ideally with a grey primer – although black would also be fine. Just be sure to rotate the head
of the miniature between blasts to ensure we get good coverage. We’re now ready to begin painting. Now we’re going to apply a light grey
base coat using Celestra Grey; however, I’ve chosen not to thin
my paint as we normally would. This is so that we can achieve a strong tone using a large flat brush, quickly and easily, whilst avoiding getting paint into the recesses, a bit like when we apply a drybrush. So what we’re applying is something of
a combination of base coat and first highlight. The main danger with applying
the paint unthinned in this way, is that we want to avoid letting globs
of paint appear at the edges of the figure. To avoid this, we don’t want to load
our brush with too much paint. We apply it mostly with the flat of the brush and after the first few strokes,
when we have less paint on the brush, we can apply the rest of the loaded paint,
bit like a very heavy drybrush. if your brush feels like it’s beginning to clog with paint, then it’s best to pause to give it
a good wash before continuing. After the first coat, it’s best
to let it dry for a good 15 minutes before adding a second, final layer. You may like to switch to a smaller brush
to cover some of the harder-to-reach places. What you should end up with, is a strong
bright grey colour, covering most of the AT-ST, perhaps with some darker tones
in the recesses remaining. To highlight the miniature,
we’re now going to apply the drybrush. We’re going to apply a fairly heavy drybrush
using Citadel’s Longbeard Grey. As you can see, this paint has
a very thick, almost dry consistency. We work some paint thoroughly into the brush
and begin highlighting the miniature, using mostly the flat edge. As usual, were aiming to pick out the raised detail
and give definition to the edges. But we’re also going to use it
to easily add some bold highlights to the parts of the figure which we
imagine would catch the most light. These might be the top of the head, the tops of the side turret mounts, as well as the protruding parts of the legs. I would also give plenty of light
to the front window area of the AT-ST as they essentially form the eyes of the figure and should be considered the focal point. You may like to switch to a smaller drybrush to gain a little more control
whilst highlighting some of these areas. Once you’re happy with the highlights, we can now paint the guns
to give them a darker metallic finish similar to the E-Web Engineers. To do that, we give them a dark grey
base coat which may need two layers. You may also like to paint the front
two windows with the same grey. We then give the guns a good drybrush
with some Leadbelcher. Once the guns are finished, it’s a good idea
to leave the miniature for a while because the paint needs to be completely dry
for what we’re going to do next. For this step, we’re going to need
plenty of Nuln Oil, a large brush, and something to wipe away the excess wash,
like an old sock. I would then transfer around ten very large brushfuls
of the wash to a palette for ease of access. Our plan is to apply the wash to
the Scout Walker, section by section, but then quite quickly wipe down the flat areas,
which we don’t want to be darkened. This will save us the trouble of having to
highlight these areas back up again, afterwards. And if we use a mostly downward motion as we wipe, we might get a subtle rain-stained weathering effect. After applying the wash to a section, our priority is to wipe down the
biggest, brightest areas first before the wash has a chance to dry. The longer we wait, the stronger
the wash will cling to the surface. We can see here that a bit of semi-dried wash allows us to create some really effective highlights by simply wiping away different amounts of the shade. Just take care not to rub too hard as we don’t want to rub off the paint layer beneath. Although we want to control the wash as best we can, there’s nothing wrong with allowing some
imperfections or streaking to form here or there as it will only add to the nicely
weathered look we’re aiming for. Once we’ve worked our way around
the walker, section by section, we should take a smaller brush and check
we’ve got the wash into all of the tiny gaps. We also want to ensure that the guns
have a good coat of the Nuln Oil too. Once the process is complete, you should see that the AT-ST has
a beautifully high contrast look with its light grey plating and deep black recesses, along with a gently wheathered to finish. As a final touch before moving on, we might like to add a few additional highlights
by adding some white to the Celestra Grey. This is a great way to add a little extra definition, especially to the edges of the miniature. If you’d like your AT-ST to have a relatively clean look, you could actually finish here. For a more grungy look, let’s go to step 5. We’re now going to use some of
Citadel’s Typhus Corrosion to create an oily grime effect. This is a highly effective and fun product to use. It looks like a slightly watery brown paint but actually has a fine, gritty texture. All we do, is apply it unthinned to any part of
the model we might expect a buildup of grime such as, at the basis of any joints or bolts. It looks particularly effective when applied
to look like downward running streaks. It is also a great way to add definition
to the joints in the armour. It can also be applied liberally to the feet area
to look like general dirt. Using an old brush might be a good idea
when applying paint in this way. It works well when built up in layers too with each subsequent application
adding a darker, more gritty concentration. This is my favourite kind of weathering as it also provides another way
of adding extra shade to the miniature. Here, we can see how easily it lets us shade
the underside of this turret mount, adding character and grime
whilst also strengthening the shadows. You can see that I’ve added grime to pretty much
most of the inner- and underside parts of the AT-ST. I’m going for a fairly heavy amount of grunge, but you can of course add as much
or as little grime as you like. The next bit of weathering you might like to try
is adding a simple rust effect, using Ryza Rust. This is applied just like a light drybrush and works especially well
over the dried Typhus Corrosion due to the raised, gritty texture. If you go too far with the rust, you can always paint over it
with some additional Typhus Corrosion, to tone the effect back down. I might also add some sparing blaster damage
using a black and brown mix just as we did with the Stormtroopers. That’s all the weathering we’re going to add for now. Next, we’ll tackle the base. We could just paint the base grey, but i feel that the AT-ST deserves
something a little more special. We’re going to use another of Citadel’s
Technical paints – Stirland Mud – to provide both the desired texture
and base colour, for a muddy outdoor effect. We simply apply the paint directly from the pot, working a nice, thick texture as we do so. It should be left for an hour to dry completely, after which you may like to add
a little extra to any part of the base where you feel the texture might be lacking. To highlight the ground,
we’re going to use two lighter tones. Starting with a moderate drybrush of XV-88… ..followed by a lighter application
of some Terminatus Stone. I’m going to add an additional touch to my AT-ST, and that is to add a few small
metallic chips and highlights to give a little extra definition,
especially to some of the edges but also to sell the illusion that
the Scout Walker is actually made of metal. With the painting now done,
we give the figure a spray of matte varnish. Finally, to really bring the base to life, we’re going to add some Silflor tufts of grass. These come in various shades and sizes. Here, I have some 2 mm early autumn and some 4 mm late autumn tufts. To add them to the base,
we simply peel a clump off the sheet – and tweezers are quite helpful here – apply a dab of super glue,
either to the grass or to the base, and press it down. This is another of those steps that
– once you have the right materials – is incredibly easy but so effective. Our AT-ST is now ready for battle. Thank you so much for watching
and joining me on this journey. With the AT-ST complete, we have now finished
the core units of the Imperial faction. Stay tuned as we have plenty more
figures to cover from Imperial Assault. Happy painting!

100 thoughts on “Star Wars Imperial Assault Painting Guide Ep.6: AT-ST

  1. It's hilarious how you seem to get a single down-vote on all of your videos =D  A rival painter in the cut-throat world of board gaming, perhaps? 

  2. Wonderful painting and a brilliant tutorial! Thank you so much for taking the time to make and share these fantastic videos. I can't wait for the future instalments.

  3. I love your videos mate. It's inspired me to buy all the painting equipment and follow your steps painting each figure with my 12 year old son cheers !!

  4. You have really done a tremendous job! I was looking forward to the AT-ST demonstration with much anticipation. You did not disappoint. It was well worth the wait. Fantastic Job! Love your videos. Keep up the great work. Thank you so much for posting these videos. You are awesome.

  5. That stage of adding typhus corrosion makes it looks like a AT-ST from the lost battalion. very nice. I wonder how a AT-ST or an AT-AT would look with a camouflage pattern?

  6. Just finished my AT-ST. My figures would not look nearly as good if it wasn't for you. Thanks Sorastro! Keep up the good work!

  7. Brilliant stuff! I am really enjoying these videos, I've been looking for ideas on what to do with the Imperial officer and what to do with the AT-ST without it just coming across as a 'flat grey block'. Many thanks for this inspiration. However I will suggest players no glue the arms to the AT-ST, as Fantasy Flight are coming out with an expansion pack for it and you will be able to swap the guns / arms out.

  8. Great video! Hey Sorastro, I am from the TGN Network. If you are interested in getting your channel partnered I will leave you my email if you would like to discuss it further.  [email protected]

  9. Because of you, I've got almost all of my Stormtroopers painted now. I appreciate the amazing attention to detail as that is exactly how my brain thinks when it comes to things like this.  Thank you for helping to make this so intuitive.   I was going to do the E-Web engineers next, but I'm seriously considering getting the AT-ST going now. About how long did it take for you to finish the job on this particular miniature?  Thanks again Sorastro.

  10. There is a second AT-ST pack up for preorder, I think it's called General Weiss. It replaces the giant cardboard piece that comes with the game.

  11. This has started my fascination with painting minis, thank you for providing such detailed yet simple instructions. When can we expect the rest of minis (Rebels)?

  12. Great job, once again!  For those who are like me, with no access to any Citadel paints, you can achieve a similar effect with the Sterling Mud by first putting down white glue and then sprinkling sugar over it.  Let it dry and then you can paint it brown.  

  13. Another amazing video! Thank you so much for doing this series. I've been wanting to get into miniature painting for a while and these videos have given me the push to do so. I've been using some of the tips from your Zombie series to paint my Last Night on Earth figures and I can't wait to have a fully painted Imperial Assault set.

  14. Great video and series!
    This is inspiring me to have a go at painting my imperial assault set. Do you have plans to do General Weiss at all?

  15. Would you say a completely new painter could do this by following videos? I'm a little scared to ruin my set

  16. Fantastic videos. Thank you very much. I love the presentation and the detail, listing all the paints etc. Excellent work!

  17. Thanks for these guides, Sorastro.  I've just finished painting this miniature this weekend, following your guide, and I'm delighted with how it has turned out.

  18. I haven't painted a miniature in over 10 years.  Stumbled across your guide after buying imperial assault and went to work on the at-st.  Im just letting the wash dry before moving on to the next step.  Thrilled with how its shaping up.  Awesome video!  Liked and subscribed.

  19. Sorastro, Thank you so much for these videos, I've been painting my set over the past few months and they're looking spectacular.  I never thought I could do something like this.  I can't wait to see the Heroes done up. My Fiancee's jealous that my Imperials look awesome! :-]

  20. the entire video I find myself just saying over and over again, "wow, that's so cool" thanks for these awesome tutorials! looking forward to painting mine soon!

  21. I'm curious, how come you insist we assemble to AT-ST people painting? I presume that's mainly for weathering but I mean for the primer and the base coat of grey.

  22. What would you do to spice up General Weiss (Hazard stripes, other colors, etc)?  How would you paint the guns?

  23. What edges did you lighten up with the celestra grey and white paint? And how did you decide that those were going to be lightened up?

  24. Hi Diesel Junkie! (Replies are disabled for your comment so I'll reply here): There's a link in the video description that should show you where I got my tufts from 🙂

  25. These are by far the most professional and helpful painting tutorials I've seen on the Internet so far. As a 25 year old who has recently gotten back into miniature painting, I've found your videos incredibly useful and very approachable for someone in between novice and experienced. I'm going to purchase Imperial Assault just so I can attempt your painting methods!

    My partner and I have managed to employ your techniques very usefully on our Super Dungeon Explore: Forgotten King models. I would highly suggest you look into this game for tutorials to come, as it's models are superbly detailed. Their somewhat cartoonish and colorful nature would offer some good variation to your YouTube channel. Keep up the awesome work!

  26. Great effects with the mud and rust. I can't wait to start painting mine. Off to Games Workshop tomorrow to pick up some Stirland mud. My 5 year old really likes watching your videos. Good job on voice overs and music. Very engaging videos you have.

  27. What are you using to remove the mold lines? This plastic doesn't take well to traditional files. I have used a citadel mold line remover with some success. Any advice?

  28. I've been out of the hobby about 10 years, and haven't used some of the new citadel special paints, the new washes, drybrush paints, etc. I have tried nuln oil and was quite happy with it. I look forward to trying some more of them. The paints are a bit pricey, but you don't want to use cheap hobby paints on miniatures. Use the the cheap paints on terrain pieces…

  29. I was about to ask where to get something you used in the video, but I then thought to check in the SHOW MORE description…And you had it covered. You have the skills, the production value in the videos, and the info anyone might want.
    You, sir , are doing it right.

  30. Great tutorial as always, thank you. My AT-ST is underway and looking good so far. What are those little white cubes in your palette at 2:30?

  31. Instead of filing or using excessive force to fit the front turret, I can only recommend dipping in hot water, like you would to straighten out bent parts. Changed it from practically impossible (taking not care for the model into consideration) to extremely easy, And then into cold water after to set it.

  32. The production value on these videos is astoundingly good. And the tutorials are very clear and comprehensive. I've been powering through them ever since I got my copy of Imperial Assault. Truly great work.

  33. Incredibly nice work. I would however say that using a q-tip or your equivalent would be better than using your finger to wipe off excess wash, since a) a q-tip is smaller, and b) it actually soaks up the wash instead of mainly just spreading it around, not to mention that c) you don't risk fingerprints on the model…

  34. Your video's, and this 1 in particular are superb. I've been a subscriber to Miniature Mentor for over a year now and I've learned more in this clip (and been more inspired) than what I gained from that subscription.

    I'll be converting my sub to a Patreon account shortly. Secondly, my son saw your videos and wanted to get Imperial Assault as a result, it was his birthday over the weekend and we're now busy prepping all his new mini's.

    Thanks for sharing your talent with us!

  35. Sorry to be so annoying, but a seriously good way to accentuate a base in autumn, is to sprinkle a few tiny bits of dried, mixed herbs (you get these in little bottles in shop/supermarkets), which look like very small, fallen leaves among the terrain.
    There are lots of herbs available, and you can use them for many season periods.
    Just another tip I learned years ago, and forgot to mention until I saw you finishing the base off in this tutorial.
    Keep up the very good work 🙂
    Paul

  36. Me again 🙂
    Just remembered another tip to use with mixed herbs on vehicles.
    If you have a walker vehicle, like the AT-ST, to get the effect of just brushing under a tree or similar, when you've finished highlighting/weathering, give the model a direct over-spray of matt varnish from above, and while the varnish is still wet, sprinkle some mixed herbs over the top of the walker, then leave to dry.
    Once the varnish is dry, the herbs can be lightly brushed with a clean, dry brush, to remove any excess (use an old, flat brush for this), then, when you're happy with the result, spray a matt varnish over the model as usual, and leave it to dry.
    Don't use watered down PVA glue for this, as (from bitter experience) I can tell you it doesn't end well 🙁
    you can do the same with armoured vehicles and even civilian cars/vehicles, to make them look as if they've been parked too near a tree in autumn (if you're making a diorama/vignette), and some leaves have settled on it.
    All the best
    Paul

  37. Do you think Army Painter's QUICKSHADE STRONG, the one you used for Black Plague would give nice effect on AT-ST?

  38. Just finished all my stormtroopers. I absolutely love your guides, I have done no form of miniature painting before and I was super pleased with my results. They of course weren't as precise as yours but they'll do just fine! I'm planning on doing the At-St next, so wish me luck!

  39. I noticed when you paint that you really load the brushes up with paint. I always thought you wanted to keep paint out of the base/ferrule of the brush. Have you ever had any issues?

  40. I just started painting minis. I was told I shouldn't use good quality brushes for dry brushing. But I noticed you use sable for that. Should I invest in good brushes for this technique then?

  41. I use vallejo paints, sometimes its such a pain to get the real equivalents! But i do not give up! lol. Wish GW would move away from using pots.

  42. Just about to start painting my AT-ST. I don't think that plastic glue is right though; it doesn't seem to melt this type of plastic at all which suggests that it may not be polystyrene based (as I believe Citadel miniatures are, which is why it works there). I first tried plastic glue but was able to easily pull apart the pieces even after a full cure and few days later. The plastic glue just popped right off, it hadn't melted at all. Superglue (aka cyanoacrylate), may be more effective imho…

  43. Just got all the stuff I've ordered today and immediately feel a bit worried. Bought the core set as well as General Weiss. Straight out of the box the fit of the AT-ST parts had a rather bad fit and some just won't push in as far as they should. My main worry though is the nose guns, on both models they show as close to breaking (slightly bent and white lines of stressed plastic around the base of the barrels), I just CAN NOT get the gun to snap in to its seating despite using as much force as I dare. Any advice on how to assemble? (I guess file down the pegs and just glue in place)

  44. I think the primer i used is a way lighter shade of grey. Should I skip ahead to dry brushing or should I paint a darker grey over the primer first? Not sure if a black primer over a light grey primer would be too much paint..

  45. For larger moving models such as this one I always recommend Priming the mini in pieces aka not fully assembled. The reason is that the primer can lock the moving pieces together if you are not careful and it is better to be safe then sorry. Also painting it in pieces can deny the paint from sealing movable joints together. Just some food for thought beyond that beautiful job.

  46. Aaaaaand you've done it again!!!! 😀 I was given three AT-ST's by my girlfriend (from a different manufacturer, complete with interior detail, crew and half of a Chewbacca figure to place in the top hatchways), but as I'm a figure painter first and foremost, they've been gathering dust under my work table for almost a year now.
    Having viewed this particular video a few times this morning, I am now building said kits (Same scale, and apparently still available on Amazon ), and preparing for my first foray in many years into the Dark Side of modelling (Armour modelling).
    I had to dig out my old airbrush as well, and think about how to apply certain effects that you get with a brush, so am now compelled/inspired once more by the Main Man (You) from Youtube to expand my skills and explore new things 🙂
    I daren't look at the Rancor painting video, as there are six of those waiting for me already, and I don't want to get distracted.
    I am LOVING every video you upload, and am seriously addicted to the zombie ones, as they are my all-time genre favourite figures that I've been collecting for years.
    I used to get about 10 figures a day painted, using my old system of painting, but now only get one or two done, but the difference is spectacular.
    I wish you and your videos had been around in 1969, when I first started figure painting, instead of the black and white Stan Catchpole programmes on Saturday morning TV in England, as I would have learned so much quicker than I had to.
    please don't EVER stop making these videos, as you are bringing so much joy and inspiration to so many people, and helping us all realize we can reach higher with every brush stroke.
    All the very best
    Paul

  47. Great Sorastro, I could use some guidance. I don't have Celestra grey, but was hoping some Dawnstone and White Scar would do the trick. Both being layer paints, I was ready for several more layers than usual being needed on that initial heavy dry-brush, but the unexpected result was very uneven, splotchy, and had many different shades (I could recreate the initial shade perfectly when I ran out). Would Dawnstone on its own be sufficient? Would Mechanicus + White Scar be better? Should I pause this figure and go get Celestra grey? Thank you so much for the help, and all of these wonderful, inspirational videos!

  48. I never thought I'd find myself painting RPG miniatures, especially into my 40s, but your guides have been an amazingly concise introduction into how the process works and just how spectacular a miniature can look after a talented guy such as yourself gets their hands on it. Thank you VERY much!

  49. It's a little sad that Imperial Assault is pretty much the only place to get Star Wars minis anymore.

  50. Stunning! This paint job looks like a welcome change after the delicate work on Boba (almost done). I'm on a budget and wonder whether I can substitute 'normal' paints for the Longbeard Grey, such as Celestra Grey with some white. It's the same with Chewie and Gaarkhan – is there any big downside to dry-brushing with Screaming Skull instead of the specific dry paint you're suggesting?

  51. Hi Sorastro! Thanks again fo the great painting series. I haven't painted any mechanical unit ever (I mean – since the Humbrol paints era, so that wouldn't count) – I'm very grateful for this guide.
    Something isn't entirely clear in my mind: at around 15:00, you suggest to use metallic (bright) paint to highlight and reinforce the metallic look. Should I then go over all of the stronger (edge) highlights done in the previous step with this? Or is there a "little something" that should be done to apply this more selectively? I wonder about this especially when looking at the left "shoulder" (or knee?) shown painting at 15:40.
    Thanks!
    Merry October painting to you!

  52. Hey there Sorastro, I've loved what you have been achieving with zenithal undercoating via an airbrush. I was wondering if that technique could be used on the AT-ST, but I note this would get buried with the heavy base coat demonstrated here. If instead, I base coated using an airbrush, what would be your recommendation? I was thinking of adding a vallejo's glaze medium to VMA medium sea grey.

  53. I am watching your videos. They are just amazing. You make the Picasso art look simple. I wish I could paint like you

  54. I painted mine today and it was so quick and simple to follow! Great guide mate, I love the basing and did the same on mine and it turned out amazing 🙂 So much fun 😀

  55. I am a little on a budget and do not have the drybrush paint needed for step 3. Is it worth dry brushing with the same gray color base paint that I have?

  56. I agree that it is an impressive job, but the paintings are to way expensives and if you are not living in the UK or in USA is impossible to buy them… so how am I going to start…??? 🙁

  57. Loved it! Very illustrative and easy explained for a beginner as myself. Very pedagogic and nice step-by-step.

    Would have been super to have a list of the colors used listed in the description – but that is just me. 🙂

    Thanx!

  58. I'm not saying this is bad not by any stretch but after watching your newest videos, it's easy to see that you've learned so much and become so much better. Keep upp the VERY good job! 🙂

  59. @soratrospainting Hey there, i am a totally beginner in painting those minis, but i want to give it a try. How long does it take to Paint something like the AT-ST?

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